New York Cork Report

The New York Cork Club's August 2010 Selections

It's still summer and this month's New York Cork Club selections reflect my still-strong preference for white wines this time year. They are Lieb Family Cellars 2008 Pinot Blanc and Red Tail Ridge Winery 2008 Dry Riesling.

If you haven't herad of the New York Cork Club (NYCC), it's pretty simple. We've partnered with BacchusWineOnline.com to create a wine club that features only wines made in New York -- making them more accessible to people around the country.

We can't ship to every state, shipping laws being what they are today, but we can ship to a lot of them.

For more information and to sign up, visit the Bacchus website.

So a bit about each of the wines...

Lieb's pinot blanc has long been a local favorite. Pinot blanc can sometimes be a bit boring, but not so here where fresh pear and apple aromas reach up out of the glass and get your attention with a little melon, wild flower and subtle nutty character. Fresh, snappy acidity lifts Gala apple and more pear flavors on a medium-bodied palate, with nuances of honey and nuts lurking in the background. The finish lingers nicely with a saline note and a squirt of citrus -- making it both thirst quenching and appetite whetting. This is a wine that local seafood longs for.

2008 rieslings from the Finger Lakes have been wowing me all summer during my weekly tastings, and this one stood out amongst an impressive group of dry versions. It features a citrusy nose of lime and sweet grapefruit with obvious flinty slate character, and subtle floral and sweet herb notes.

Extremely focused and zesty on the palate, green apple, lime and lemon peel flavors are framed and energized by electric acidity. The finish is long with trailing slate flavors that linger along with more citrus and sweet herb.

Interesting in signing up? You can do so on the Bacchus website.

Is This the Best Wine in New York State?

The 2010 Governor's Cup award did not go to a Long Island red, or a Finger Lakes riesling. It went to a sparkling riesling, and a sweet one at that.

For the second time in three years, Swedish Hill Winery has captured the Governor's Cup. Organized by the New York Wine and Grape Foundation, the judging brings writers and industry professionals to Watkins Glen. They taste more than 800 wines.

The Governor's Cup is the single most powerful award given to a New York wine. That's because it instantly sells wine. More than a big magazine or a New York Cork Report review, this award can guarantee a sell-out. 

And that's why it's so important that the judges get it right. 
 

What is the winning wine, exactly?

Swedish Hill winemaker Ian Barry told me that the Riesling Cuvee is labeled non-vintage, but all of the fruit came from 2009. It was grown in the Caywood Vineyard run by Doyle, which is the largest vineyard acreage holder in the region. Even though this riesling was picked during the last week of October, it still checked in slightly below 18 brix. Barry thought that made it ideal for a sparkling wine, and he made 364 cases, with bottles selling for $17. (The price won't change with the award, but customers won't be allowed to purchase more than one.)

"I think riesling works really well as a sparkling wine base and is a natural fit," Barry said, citing its high acidity and fruit profile. "I've had some pretty amazing sekts from Germany that have always made me wonder why more people didn't make this style."

The Swedish Hill Riesling Cuvee is sweet; Barry fermented it dry and then back-sweetened to 3.5 residual sugar. But he finds customers thinking it's more dry, given the natural snap of acid.
 

Is this the kind of wine that should win the Governor's Cup?

Barry thinks so. When asked if the Cup should always go to a Finger Lakes riesling or a Long Island red, he replied, "I really don't think that's fair. I know there is an advantage to building the reputation of these two grapes as the signature varieties for their respective areas, but in truth there are lots of great wines being made in New York from lots of different varieties."

Then he added, "I wouldn't be surprised if a pinot noir or a chardonnay or even a traminette won it."

A wave of industry leaders rushed to congratulate Barry and Swedish Hill. "It is encouraging to see that the judges for the Classic were so supportive of a wine that is not widely known or produced in the Finger Lakes," wrote Bob Madill of Sheldrake Point Vineyard, who described the Governor's Cup wine as lightly sweet and pleasant.

"I think it can work," said Aaron Roisen, winemaker at Hosmer winery on Cayuga Lake. "Obviously Ian knows how to sort it out. I think a sparkling wine made from the region's top variety shows the range of quality and intricacies that grape has to offer."

"It must be quite a delicious bubbly," said Charles Massoud, owner of Paumanok on Long Island. "Though I have yet to see the results, I congratulate the winery that won."

Jim Silver of Peconic Bay on Long Island, a long-time advocate for a strong statewide focus on the top vinifera, chose to focus on the strength of the judging. "The judges are a talented lot who know their stuff," he said. "I'm looking forward to trying the wine myself." He added that the award is "probably well deserved." 

But some other winemakers who asked to remain anonymous told me this award is a negative for a state trying to carve out a reputation in other areas. 

"I just hope writers and consumers in other states don't see this and laugh," one winemaker told me. "A sweet sparkling riesling from a region trying to promote itself as world class. Doesn't quite add up, does it?"

Barry believes this award validates the top quality of riesling as a sparkling wine. "In any reputable competition, the truly good wines will always finish near the top and the truly crappy wines will not get awards." Unfortunately, this has been proven by recent study to be incorrect. In fact, this rather exhaustive look at high-level wine competitions shows that a gold medal wine will very often receive no medal at all in other similar competitions.

That's not to say that the Swedish Hill Riesling Cuvee is undeserving. But it is to point out that if the same judges gathered next week to taste the same wines, they'd almost certainly pick different winners in every single category.

Will other Finger Lakes producers follow suit?

In a short survey of Finger Lakes wineries in the past 24 hours, the answer appears to be: No. Some wineries already produce a sparkling riesling; each August the revelers at McGregor's Clan Club Picnic dance to the sounds of Forever in Blue Jeans re-written to say "Spark-a-ling Riesling." Dr. Frank has produced a sparkling riesling for two decades. 

Other producers have already expanded their sparkling production with other grapes. "We are back in the sparkling business after a 15-year hiatus," said Scott Osborn of Fox Run Vineyards. "We just released a Blanc de Blanc made from chardonnay."

But certainly Swedish Hill will sell out of their Riesling Cuvee and keep the program going. 

As for the competition, you might recall that Lenn and I wrote our prescription for fixing some of its ills last year. The points made in that post are still relevant today, and you can read it by clicking here. We'll have more to say soon regarding large judging competitions. In the meantime, we look forward to opening a bottle of the Swedish Hill Riesling Cuvee, and we congratulate Ian Barry and the staff. They have seen the tense days of harvest and the long nights throughout the season pay off. 

This Might Be the Weirdest Wine List Ever

My wife and I had lunch at the Village Tavern in Hammondsport on Tuesday, and we encountered a mind-bending wine list. 

The Tavern is well known for its long selection of aged Finger Lakes wines. Lenn and I have both written about it in the past. The good news is that the Tavern has ideal storage and a staff that pledges to taste the wines periodically to make sure they're still showing well.

But this most recent visit revealed an even longer - and frankly, more bizarre - list than I remember seeing at the Tavern.

Start with the by-the-glass list. The Tavern was pouring Glenora 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dr. Frank 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, and Fox Run 1997 Lemberger by the glass! And that's just the start. My wife ordered a Hermann J. Wiemer 2003 Dry Rose that was, sadly, extremely tired. I tried the '97 Lemberger and also found it sluggish and muted, but not at all oxidized. It defines the notion that wine can hang on with age if not necessarily improve. However, a glass of Chateau Lafayette-Reneau 2002 Riesling was wonderful and fresh.

Then we turned to the bottle list. 

The list of eye-raising old wines is too long to lay out fully in this space, but I'll list the most confounding:

*Glenora 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon for $149
*Prejean 1995 Marechal Foch
*Glenora 1996 Petite Sirah for $68
*Fulkerson 1997 Vincent

That last wine is a Tom Mansell special. Hey Science Ed, will you go try out that Vincent in the name of research?

I'm not saying these wines are all dead. But the track record of Marechal Foch or Vincent or Finger Lakes Petite Sirah might not lead most experts to expect much out of them. I hope I'm wrong. The Tavern is always a treat, thanks to this quirky list that seems to grow ever quirkier with age - perhaps like a fine Finger Lakes Foch.

What We Drank (August 17, 2010)

Evan Dawson: Cab Franc showdown (Domaine des Ouches 2005 Bourguiel and Red Newt Cellars 2005 Cabernet Franc)

It's always enlightening to compare, and this was a nice little linear comparison: Cabernet Franc from its sweet spot in France and Cabernet Franc from one of the strongest Finger Lakes producers in a very good vintage. 

Unfortunately, the Bourguiel suffered from some storage issues (we assume) and was prematurely tired. But the Red Newt showed beautifully, with our guests showing genuine surprise when it was finally revealed as a Finger Lakes red. I wouldn't say it's highly indicative of place, but not many Cab Francs from the Finger Lakes are showing a regional character. That will come with more time. This is simply a modern style red with impressive texture and length. It was one of the wines of the night at our dinner party.

We'll revisit the Loire Valley on another occasion soon. That's never a bad idea.

Bryan Calandrelli: Movia Sauvignon 2007

When I saw this bottle behind the bar at Just Vino in Buffalo I immediately knew my long drive into the city was warranted. I didn¹t see it on their list of over 80 wines by the glass but luckily I¹d recognize that label from a distance.

Intense golden color with aromas of pine resin, apricot, citrus, lavender and honey. It¹s crisp on the palate yet still full, smooth and seamless. The oxidative quality that comes with this wine is totally in balance and seems to work in its favor.

It¹s amazing how much I think I dislike oaked whites, oxidative wines or whites with prolonged skin contact until I taste wines like this. When it¹s done well they can be transformative to the wine drinker.

David Flaherty: "The Carabinieri" cocktail (Palo Cortado Sherry, Reposado Tequila, Cynar, Galiano, Bitters)

Sherry is one of the greatest beverages on the planet. And when it comes together with great spirits, it can be mind-bogglingly good.

This weekend, my wife and I popped into Clover Club in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn. As usual, I insisted we sit at the bar so I could watch the mixologists at work and get a look at their "gear" - they've got an array of bitters, juices and liqueurs all lined up in tiny glass bottles like battle-ready ninjas. (In all honesty, I'm very annoying to sit with in times like these because every time a cocktail is being made, my attention wanes and I become like a kid at the zoo transfixed by the Monkey House).

For the Carabinieri, I was amazed by the integration of such diverse ingredients. I mean, Sherry and Tequila? Cynar (a bitter, artichoke-based liqueur)? Wow, what a line-up and the fact that they found harmony was beautiful. The aroma was hypnotic: a blend of nuttiness and sea air with a rich, plummy center that hit me square in the kisser. On the palate, it was a virtual receiving line as each ingredient had its fair shake. Starting with the rich, oxidized notes of the Palo Cortado, it melded into the citrusy Agave notes of the Reposado and finished with a bitter zip from the Cynar that left my mouth stunned at what had transpired.

As Americans, we often shy away from bitter drinks, but the Italians have it right. Bitterness is a beautiful thing when embraced. There is a whole world of sensations and spirits awaiting those who venture into its domain.

Swedish Hill Winery 2009 Dry Riesling

Not all that many have hit tasting room lists or store shelves yet, but if the early returns are any indication, 2009 may prove another great year for Finger Lakes riesling.

Swedish Hill Winery winemaker Ian Barry makes a lot of wines. When we stopped there last month to taste, I was shocked at just how many wines were on the tasting sheet -- at least 30. Throw in the fact that he makes the wines for Penguin Bay Winery and Goosewatch Winery and he's one busy man come harvest time (and the rest of the year.)

Swedish Hill Winery 2009 Dry Riesling ($16) very well may be the best wine I've tasted from Swedish Hill.

Intense melon and lime aromas dominate the nose with supporting green apple and citrus blossom notes.

Forward and fruity on the palate, it delivers juicy melon and sweet lime flavors with integrated acidity and a finish that lingers nicely with more lime, more melon and just a little floral character.

Not overly complex, but shows great balance and good focus.

Producer: Swedish Hill Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
Price: $16*
Rating: 87

(*Ratings Guide)

The New York Cork Report Tasting Table -- August 16, 2010

These are some wines that have crossed the NYCR tasting table recently but will not be reviewed as part of a stand-alone post. As always, these are notes almost verbatim from my tasting notebook:

Atwater Estate Vineyards 2008 Big Blend ($15): Cab sauv, lemberger, syrah and merlot. Peppery medium-intensity nose with a little oak/vanilla. Black cherry and blackberry fruit aromas. Medium-light body, black cherry and cranberry flavors with sweet spice. Juicy mouthfeel with low tannins and maybe a bit too much acidity. Caramel coffee and chocolate flavors linger on the medium finish. Rating: 82

Channing Daughters Winery 2008 "Clones" ($29): Nose shows roasted pears and apples with spice and just a little lemon verbena. Plump and fruity on the attack, with tree fruit and spice. Gets a bit creamy on the mid-palate with a little vanilla. A little bitterness on the finish (from the gewurtz?) with nice acidity to balance the wine's heft/richness. Oak is understated and well-integrated. Rating: 85

Damiani Wine Cellars 2008 Cabernet Franc ($22): Black raspberry and cherry on the nose with garden herbs, roasted jalapeno and toasty oak on the nose. Medium body with spicy oak (maybe a bit too much) with bright red cherry, roasted pepper and somewhat juicy acidity. Med-short finish. Rating: 85

Heron Hill Winery 2007 Ingle Vineyard Riesling ($15): Expressive nose of lemon-lime with petrol and subtle minty-herbal character. More lemon-lime on the palate, joined by apple and subtle herbs. Tastes mostly dry with good length, but finishes with a little sweet richness. More acid would bring focus and verve. Seems like a 'drink now' wine. Rating: 84

Roanoke Vineyards 2009 De Rosa Rose ($16): Wild strawberry, raspberry and a subtle savory herb edge on the nose with some peachy/passionfruit notes as it warms. Strawberries on the palate with peach and a little citrus -- orange and grapefruit, on a richer but well-balanced palate. The acidity is well-integrated and the finish is fresh and citrusy. Rating: 86

Vineyard 48 2008 Chardonnay ($17): All steel. Ripe apple and citrus on the nose with a little nutty lees richness. Fruity on the palate with straightforward apple flavors, a creamy mid-palate and a little melon that steps forward on the medium-short finish. Rating: 82

Heron Hill Winery 2008 Pinot Blanc

I have to admit that most of my experience with pinot blanc is with New York renditions -- especially from Long Island where a few wineries produce it. I've had a handful from other regions too -- Alsace of course and one or two from northern Italy -- and I'm always surprised that the grape doesn't get more attention.

If nothing else, they are great summer sippers and I find it difficult to ever dislike them. They are what they are -- sometimes austere to the point of being boring, but hardly offensive.

Heron Hill Winery 2008 Pinot Blanc ($18) is a mouthwatering wine that is vaguely reminiscent of sauvignon blanc -- minus the grassy herbaceous quality.

Gooseberry, green apple aromas dominate a fruity-but-bright nose with a little lemony citrus in there too. 

Medium bodied it features snappy, citrusy acidity that brings tension and verve to citrus, kiwi and gooseberry flavors.

The finish isn't long, but doesn't drop off a cliff either, ending with more citrus and subtle wet stone quality.

Producer: Heron Hill Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.5%
Price: $28*
Rating: 86

(*Ratings Guide)

Finger Lakes Culinary Bounty Dinner, 2010

 By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Photo by Morgan Dawson Photography

Thursday brought a positively elysian setting for the annual Finger Lakes Culinary Bounty dinner. Chefs from a number of local establishments used local ingredients to create an inspiring menu, highlighted by rabbit that nearly fell off the bone. And of course the wines were local, punctuated by Sheldrake Point Gewurztraminer and a sparkling wine from Dr. Konstantin Frank. 

Thanks to FLCB for asking me to emcee the proceedings at Geneva On the Lake. It has become a hot ticket, and membership in the FLCB is a pittance for an organization that works hard to connect local businesses and purveyors. 

How Dry is Too Dry for Your Riesling?

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

On a recent visit to Rooster Hill Vineyards, owner Amy Hoffman said something that got my attention. 

The new Rooster Hill Dry Riesling has .8% residual sugar, or 8 grams of RS. Their dry riesling used to have 4 grams. There's a reason for the change.

"Our experience has shown that .4 is a niche product," Hoffman told me. "There's a much wider and more accepting market when your dry riesling is at .8." 

Today my colleague Lenn Thompson reviewed a Finger Lakes dry riesling that received one of his highest scores: 91 points for the Red Tail Ridge 2008 Dry Riesling, a wine with -- did you guess it already? -- exactly .4 RS.

So what gives? Is there a market for riesling at its driest? Or is Hoffman correct, and should Finger Lakes winemakers protect their sales by adding a few grams more sugar?

Ponder your favorite rieslings from around the world as you ponder the following.

It's not easy to make a world-class riesling when RS is extremely low

"Rieslings that are four grams or less do seem to be a tough sell," says Jeff Houck, winemaker at Lucas Vineyards on Cayuga Lake. "I would have to agree with (Amy Hoffman)." 

Houck finds a more willing market with his semi-dry rieslings, and that's a common sentiment across the region. 

"I might agree that four grams may represent a style that is a bit more edgy, or firm, or hard," says Dave Whiting, winemaker of Red Newt Cellars on Seneca Lake. "Eight grams might be a bit smoother and more voluptuous. I'm not sure what is more widely acceptable."

There is a world of difference between a bone-dry Finger Lakes riesling that is jarringly off and a bone-dry Finger Lakes riesling that is electrically stimulating. Some producers are simply fermenting riesling until essentially totally dry, without regard to sugars, acids, and the quality of fruit. Lenn and I have come to refer to these rieslings as showing a style of "acid water." They are so buzzing and garish that there is almost no fruit upon which to hang all that acid. 

It is no wonder those wines do not sell briskly.

But when the fruit is good, from a prime site, and the winemaking is careful and thoughtful and considers all elements, then a bone-dry riesling can be a beauty. It can rattle your senses and use the acidity to stretch out the finish. Red Tail Ridge's 2008 Dry Riesling is a nice example, as are the dry rieslings from Ravines Wine Cellars on Keuka Lake.

"I do believe that working at the low sugar level requires extreme precision in the balance of the wine," says Ravines winemaker Morten Hallgren. "Any imperfection, phenolics or lack of balance will show up. Having higher sugar levels will allow you to disguise these flaws, and it's commonly done that way. But the lower sugar level seems to allow a greater purity and focus of aromas and will offer more satisfying food pairings."

Hallgren uses that word -- balance -- to make a vital point...

Sugar really has (almost) nothing to do with it

"If the fruit is right, a wine can for sure handle a sugar level as low as four grams or even lower than that," says Johannes Reinhardt, winemaker at Anthony Road Wine Company on Seneca Lake. "It can still be very well accepted by a broader audience. Balance is the key word. If a wine is balanced it will sell!"

But this point goes both ways.

"A wine with eight grams of sugar can be off balance, too," Reinhardt points out.

At Lucas, Houck makes the same observation. "There are all kinds of variables that would influence the wine's balance. The acidity, pH, and ethanol would all play a part in the wine. The sugar is only one component."

Still, Houck admits, "Usually I find the very dry rieslings to be edgier but probably a bit much for many drinkers."

So is this category of riesling a "niche product" destined to fizzle in the tasting room or stores shelves? Vinny Aliperti, winemaker at Atwater Estate and Billsboro Winery on Seneca Lake, can envision more wine drinkers embracing the bone-dry style.

"Bone dry, four to eight grams, is a growing niche in the Finger Lakes," Aliperti says. "I expect it will continue expanding. Ten to twenty grams, especially in years like 2008 and 2009, is closer to the most widely acceptable style of riesling."

Some trends fade away, while others take time to gain wider acceptance. That's exactly the point made by Paul Brock, an instructor at Finger Lakes Community College and the former head winemaker at Lamoreaux Landing on Seneca Lake. 

"Either sugar level can be balanced in a respectable dry style and successfully marketed to the masses," Brock says. "Acid, pH, aroma and body are all going to weigh heavily on the acceptance in a blind tasting. What is niche in one winery or region could be totally widely accepted at another winery or region. Things could change over time."

The future of Finger Lakes riesling

Debates like this one reveal that Finger Lakes riesling can be world-class without being forced into one specific box. The region needs more diversity of style in its riesling, not less, and it is turning out stunning wines at all sugar levels. 

But the pursuit of a world-class bone-dry riesling must be handled delicately. There are enough poor examples on shelves right now. Enamel is a nice asset for a set of human teeth, and searing it off with acid water is an unkind trick to turn.

Thrillingly, more producers are learning to combine site and fruit with the care necessary to make a dry riesling to rattle the mind and inspire the senses. Each customer will find their own preference, and the range of options is vast. As it should be.

Red Tail Ridge Winery 2008 Dry Riesling

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Red Tail Ridge Winery, perched atop a hill overlooking Seneca Lake, has garnered a lot of attention for its sustainable practices since opening the tasting room in 2007, and deservedly so. (Read our coverage of their green initiatives.)

What gets lost a bit in all of that "green" coverage is how good co-owner and winemaker Nancy Irelan's wines can be. 

When I tasted a few of them during TasteCamp earlier this year, I came away impressed -- especially with the pinot noir -- especially given the youth of the vines.

I wanted to taste more, and when Nancy sent me some of her new and upcoming releases, I had that opportunity.

The Red Tail Ridge Winery 2008 Dry Riesling ($18) is one of top dry rieslings (.4% RS) I've tasted this summer.

It features a citrusy nose of lime and sweet grapefruit with obvious flinty slate character, and subtle floral and sweet herb notes.

Extremely focused and zesty on the palate, green apple, lime and lemon peel flavors are framed and energized by electric acidity. The finish is long with trailing slate flavors that linger along with more citrus and sweet herb.

At $18 it doesn't necessarily fall into the "bargain" sweet spot most of us think of, but it's a terrific value.

Producer: Red Tail Ridge Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
RS: .4%
ABV: 12%
Price: $18*
Rating: 91

(*Ratings Guide)

Vineyard Visuals: Pinot Noir Veraison at Hobbit Hollow Vineyard

Photo courtesy of Tom Higgins, Heart & Hands Wine Company

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

Two weeks ahead of the regular schedule,and four weeks ahead of last year.

Think winemaking doesn't change year-to-year? Growers in the Finger Lakes almost never see veraison in July, and yet some berries were already turning when August arrived. This shot was taken in one of the cooler (but meticulously maintained) vineyards in the region: Hobbit Hollow vineyard on Skaneateles Lake.

The fruit from this vineyard goes to some of the strongest producers in the region, including Ravines Wine Cellars and Heart & Hands Wine Company. Tom Higgins of Heart & Hands says this vineyard didn't reach this point of development until the very end of August in 2009.

This is the time of year when every day's weather plays an increasingly larger role in the story, but so far the season has almost been a dream. Producers will have the option of picking at varying stages of ripeness, assuming some wickedly cold weather doesn't muddle the remainder of the growing term.

The New York Cork Report Tasting Table -- August 2, 2010

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Here are seven wines that have crossed the NYCR tasting table in recent weeks but will not be reviewed as part of a stand-alone post. As always, these are notes almost verbatim from my tasting notebook:

Martha Clara Vineyards 2005 Estate Reserve Merlot ($25): Ripe red cherry, milk chocolate, tobacco and light spice on the nose. Juicy on the palate with red cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. Soft tannins and subtle spice with more chocolate. Medium length with nice blueberry compote flavors towards the end. On day two, a bit more complexity emerged. Rating: 85

Lenz Winery 2007 Blanc de Noir ($15): Pinot noir rose. Delicate, almost austere nose strawberry candy, red cherry, cotton candy and orange zest. Light body and somewhat short, but show nice varietal character -- red berries with silky texture cut with fresh acidity at the end. Simple, but with a little earthiness on the finish. Rating: 83

Lenz Winery 2007 White Label Chardonnay ($12): Soft vanilla and toast aromas surround a nose that shows ripe apple and delicate lemon zest and butter scents. The medium-bodied palate shows much less oak and is far fruitier bringing ripe pears, Meyer lemons and green apple. There is a minerally vein that really steps forward on the end of a medium-length finish. Simple but fresh and tasty, this is the kind of every day chardonnay people are looking for. Great value. Rating: 86

Red Tail Ridge 2008 Semi Sweet Riesling ($14): Big pear aromas with a little tropical fruit cocktail on the nose. Lush and mouth-filling. Sweet but good balance because of juicy, citrusy acidity. Grapefruit note -- along with that acidity -- scrubs the palate on the end of a long finish. Nicely done in the sweeter style. 40 g/L RS. Rating: 86

Vineyard 48 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ($19): Spicy but a little underripe with tomato leaf flavors a bit too apparent mingling with sweet red cherry and raspberry flavors. Rustic acidity makes it a wine best enjoyed with food — perhaps pizza or other tomato-based cuisine. Rating: 81

Vineyard 48 NV "48 White" ($13): Blend of chardonnay, riesling and sauvignon blanc. A little matchstick on the nose, but once that blew off fruity aromas of peach and grapefruit were accented by a little herbal quality and a note of canned pears. Medium-bodied and a little un-focused on the palate, the flavors are mostly fruity — peach, citrus and a little melon — with fresh acid and a bit of residual sweetness. Rating: 80

Vineyard 48 2007 Riesling ($20): Shows some nicely maturing character on the nose — almond, candy shell , golden apple and honey. Off-dry style with good-not-great acidity. There are fruity pear and apple flavors on a medium-light bodied palate with more almond notes. A little short, but in a tasting room-.popular style At $15 this would be a nice every day wine for people who like a little residual sugar. At $20, it’s a little overpriced. Rating: 84

Follow-up: Why Rooster Hill Vineyards Uses Synthetic Cork

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Most wineries around the world use natural cork as the closure for their best vines.

Last week I discovered that Rooster Hill Vineyards, a strong producer based on Keuka Lake, chooses to use synthetic corks (see photo).

Turns out, many of you have noticed as well. Here's the full post, and the comments contain references to the cork question.

Here is Rooster Hill owner Amy Hoffman's response, explaining her choice. Feel free to discuss in the comments section on this post.

***

"(Winemaker) Barry Tortolone and I have discussed this at length. The biggest reason is to ensure corked wines are not poured in restaurants that typically don't have good trained staff that may recognize tainted wine. The last thing I want is for some family to drink a bottle of wine that is not right and then judge our wines by that experience.

Food for thought!"

The New York Cork Club's July 2010 Selections

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

This month's New York Cork Club selections are Sheldrake Point Vineyards 2008 Gewurztraminer and Herman J. Wiemer 2008 Dry Riesling, who great summer sippers that will pair with the hot temperatures we've been "enjoying" of late and also with the great local produce that is available this time of year.

Before I say a bit about the two wines, first let me point you at more information about the New York Cork Club (NYCC) itself. The quick and dirty of it is that we've partnered with BacchusWineOnline.com to build a wine club that features only wines made in New York -- making more accessible to people around the country. We can't ship to every state, shipping laws being what they are today, but we can ship to a lot of them.

For more information and to sign up, visit the Bacchus website.

Okay, enough of that. You want information about the wines, right?

Sheldrake Point Vineyard 2008 Gewurztraminer ($18) is a classy, classically styled gewurztraminer that delivers the character I love about gewurztraminer without any of the overly perfumey stuff that I don't. Candied lemon peel bursts from the glass with floral aromas that aren't at all rose-like or perfumy, classic lychee notes and a little sprinkling of brown spice.

Medium bodied and showing good balance between residual sugar and acidity, this gewurz tastes dry despite sweet lemon-citrus flavors with some ripe peach in the mix. The acidity isn't electric, but helps the wine finish crisply with lingering citrus blossom and Lemon Head candy flavors.

Interesting in signing up for the club? You can do so on the Bacchus website.

After including the 2008 Late Harvest a few months ago, I picked Herman J. Wiemer 2008 Dry Riesling this month, their 'regular' dry bottling. Don't be fooled -- it's anything but ordinary. The nose erupts with classic Finger Lakes character -- bright lime, Kaffir lime leaf, lemon zest and grapefruit aromas with an undercurrent of wet slate minerality. 

In a mouth-watering, trocken Kabinett style, the palate is dry (.8% RS) with electric acidity that is both balanced and integrated. Lime flavors drive the palate with white grapefruit and slightly less minerality than the nose might indicate. This wine shows great length and has a bright-but-smooth finish, begging for another sip -- as well as a place on the lunch or dinner table.

Confidently Crowing at Rooster Hill Vineyards

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes and Managing Editor

Photo: Owner Amy Hoffman, left, works the tasting room on a busy summer day

There are not many 90-point Gewurztraminers that have come out of the Finger Lakes, and there has never been a 90-point lemberger. 

Amy Hoffman, owner of Rooster Hill Vineyards on Keuka Lake, believes she has one of each. And she isn't afraid to say so.

"I jumped right on Facebook and said that these would get 90 points," she told me on a busy mid-week day in the tasting room that overlooks the northeast branch of the lake.

That confidence has been a key component of Hoffman's plan since launching Rooster Hill Vineyards nearly ten years ago. Without some swagger, Hoffman and her husband knew they would have no chance. After all, they were not farmers or grape growers or winemakers by trade. Amy was a high-tech consultant and marketing executive; David was a financial planner. If they were serious about making wine, they had to approach the endeavor with a positive mindset.

"We like to say we're serious without being snobby," Amy said with a smile, and she might have also added, "confident without being cocky."

 On this visit I wanted to taste the wines, learn more about Hoffman's vision, and try to figure out how this small winery was making a profit without any intentions of growing beyond 5,000 cases or so.

Applying lessons in the vineyard and winery

The first thing you'll notice about the wines is that they're all clean, solid, and thoughtful (Hoffman hired Barry Tortolone to be the winemaker from the beginning in 2002). She explained that without an open mind in the vineyard, this might not be possible.

"Take cabernet franc, for example," she said. "We're now getting just over two tons an acre. I was a skeptic about that for a while. We used to be higher, around four tons, and I wasn't sold that there would be a difference. But you just have to do it. The difference is profound, and now our red wines are so much better than what they were even four or five years ago."

The 2008 cabernet franc is alive with campfire and dark, murky fruit. Like Lenn, I found the smoky notes to be a bit too dominant, but Amy explained (and Lenn agreed) that giving the wine time to open up allows the aromas and flavors to marry a bit more.

That presents a challenge for tasting room staff, who tend to pour super-fresh bottles, but that's another story.  

Another lesson that is paying off for Rooster Hill is the move toward a wider range of riesling. The 2009 dry riesling is snappy and evocative of a cooler vintage, while the semi-dry fleshes out a bit more. But it was the 2008 semi-sweet that moved me. This was a very expressive rieslings, with a broad nose of almond cake and star fruit and an expansive finish of marmalade, honey, candied grapefruit, and beeswax. 

"We're thrilled with this wine," Amy said, almost jumping out of the tasting room with excitement. "We don't have a lot left, but we're thinking of laying some more down. This should have a fascinating life ahead."

I couldn't agree more. It's an early candidate for 2010 Finger Lakes white wine of the year, and it's a wonderful example of the serious (not snooty!) sweeter rieslings being made in the region. I was a bit let down with the 2009 version, which is still awkward. Then I was surprised to return home, open a bottle of the 2008, and find it sealed with a synthetic cork. I think that's a mistake for any Finger Lakes riesling, and particularly so for a wine that shows potential for the long-term.

Still, there is promise in the riesling lineup at Rooster Hill.

"It might sound cliche, but there's a riesling for every palate, and there's a wine for every person who comes into our tasting room," she said. "When you can offer a customer three different rieslings, you have a great chance to connect with them."

A marketing executive's vision

The tasting bar alone cost the Hoffmans $20,000, and the tasting menus are right up there with the classiest presentations in New York state. It's a reflection of the marketing executive's demand for a superlative tasting room experience.

"This is where you can separate yourself," she said, gesturing to the ornate bar and warmly decorated room. "My staff knows how important that is. Everyone who comes in to taste wine wants to have a great time." She seems surprised to see the lackluster tasting room experiences that often color the experience at her competitors' facilities, but that's just another opportunity. "Of course we're trying to stand out. We want it to be fun. We want it to be memorable."

The Hoffmans have not cut financial corners in the tasting room; most elements evoke the name and theme, which are a reference to the Hoffmans' love of all things Italy and Tuscany. But I wondered: What does she see in the region beyond the tasting room that is holding the Finger Lakes back?

"There's no easy solution for this, but for the region to take the next big step, we need a big-money supporter," she said, referencing the investors who have propped up vintners on the west coast. "I'm not saying I know how we get there. But if we could pull that off, we'd see the world take more notice of what we're doing."

So... 90 point wines?

I'm not the best writer to talk to about point scores, admittedly. Lenn does our scoring. But I can say that the 2009 Gewurztraminer is impressive and extremely consumer-friendly in a marketplace that can be turned off by extreme gewurz character. It's not hot, unlike many of its brethren, and it carries a melange of ginger and spice without going over the top. 

The 2008 Lemberger is far less smoky than the cabernet franc, and in fact it stands as the best example I've yet had from the Finger Lakes. The key to this wine is weight and texture, which Hoffman attributes to the knowledge they've gained in the vineyards (Rooster Hill has eight acres and the majority of their wine is produced from estate fruit, with the rest purchased from Finger Lakes growers). 

But what makes for a 90-point lemberger, anyway? Hoffman admits that she rarely drinks wines from other producers. At home, she drinks Rooster Hill. "I'm proud of what we're doing and I find myself gravitating toward our wines!" she said. That's understandable, but without a wider frame of reference - without drinking more from the Finger Lakes and from around the world - it makes it more difficult to assess what truly constitutes a special wine.

In less than a decade, Hoffman has become a leader in the local industry by sitting on boards and generally planting proverbial flags everywhere she goes. She has gained a reputation as a ferocious advocate for Finger Lakes wines on restaurant lists, and she isn't afraid to push her colleagues to focus on higher and higher quality. The result is a strong lineup of wines and a friendly tasting room experience. If Hoffman is correct, her success will benefit the region as a whole. And she still has so much more to learn.

Travel Log: Ithaca, NY and Cayuga Lake

We started our three-day Cayuga jaunt with a stop at Long Point Winery, home to a surprising number of California reds but some tasty local whites too.

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

The Finger Lakes region is one the most beautiful spots on earth -- at least my wife and I think so. That's why we seem to vacation in the ara almost any chance we get. Sometimes it's just for a one-night getaway. Other times it's for a week with the little guy.

We had talked about going to Italy or Spain to celebrate our five-year wedding anniversary a few weeks ago, but in the end, fiscal responsibility won out and we headed back to the Finger Lakes -- but to Cayuga Lake. Previous we had spent significant time on Keuka Lake and Seneca Lake and we thought it was time to explore Ithaca and the surrounding area.

We hiked every day, ate some great meals and yes, tasted some great wines to boot.

Wine was almost secondary on this trip though. We devoted much more time to the natural beauty of Cayuga Lake and the surrounding areas. 

That doesn't mean that we didn't eat and drink well though.

Rather than touch on every single thing that we put in our mouths over the course of four days and three nights, I thought I'd share the highlights and one disappointment.

Some of the Highlights:

Aurora Inn: We ate several great meals on the trip, but dinner at the Aurora Inn on our final night was a standout. The combination of people, place, food and wine made it a meal to remember. A panna cotta made with local goat's milk chevre and dressed with roasted, lightly-pickled local beets was one of the stars of the night for me.

Bellwether Hard Cider: I'm not a big cider drinker -- just because I haven't had much exposure to them beyond the big-production stuff you can find in just about every grocery store around here. Bellwether ciders bear little resemblance to those. Nena was even a bigger cider doubter than I was -- and we both came away completely converted. The balance and surprising nuance of these hand-crafted ciders is impressive. A must-stop on the west side of Cayuga Lake.

Cayuga Lake Creamery: Speaking of must-stops, here's another one. Looks like any other street-side ice cream joint until you get closer and get a look at the creative and interesting flavors. I can still taste the salted caramel scoop I enjoyed as we drove back to Ithaca.

Ithaca Beer Company: Nena and I decided that we were going to hike a lot during our trip, and we kicked that off about half an hour after getting into town with a quick drive to Buttermilk Falls. It was mid-afternoon. It was hot. We were tired and sweaty. But we drove down the street to Ithaca Beer Company and were quickly refreshed by beers like Flower Power (IPA), Ground Break (saison) and Partly Sunny (wit). We even liked the root beer enough to buy some of that too. Don't be fooled by the storefront location. They are making seriously delicious beers.

Just a Taste: Ithaca doesn't lack for restaurants, but there aren't many wine-focused spots. Just a Taste, with an incredible number of wines by the glass (including just enough local stuff in my mind) made for a fun opening night dinner of small plates that were all solid and often good. It was easy to over-order the tapas...and we did.

Lively Run Goat Dairy: Wonderful, extremely affordable cheeses in a tiny and definitely rustic tasting room tucked into a barn. We bought a piece of every cheese they make.

Heart & Hands Wine Company: While we tried to focus on places we'd never been to before, we did make a return visit to the best little pinot noir winery in the East. We tasted two new 2009 rieslings, which I forgot to buy for review later. You've ready enough about H&H on this site to know that you should just go for yourself.

Simply Red Bistro: The beautiful views of Cayuga Lake and comfortable, sunny setting are reason enough to grab a tasting trail lunch at Simply Red Bistro (which is at Sheldrake Point Vineyard). That we had some amazingly good food makes it the place to lunch on the west side of Cayuga Lake. Nena has eaten mussels all over the country and Chef Sam Izzo's were among the best she's had. My steak sandwich -- made with local grass-fed beef -- was stellar. Finishing a great lunch and then bellying up to the winery's tasting bar was pretty fun too. If only Long Island wineries could have restaurants.

One Major Disappointment:

Moosewood Restaurant: When the power went out at Hazelnut Kitchen the day of our reservation, they called and told us that they'd likely not be able to open. We were of course disappointed, but took the opportunity to head to the famous vegetarian restaurant Moosewood. Disinterested service and food that tasted a little too much like home cooking -- meaning I could have cooked it just as well if not better from one of their cookbooks -- made for an extremely 'whelming' experience. At least they had several local beers on draft.

The New York Cork Report Tasting Table -- July 26, 2010

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Here are seven wines that have crossed the NYCR tasting table in recent weeks but will not be reviewed as part of a stand-alone post. As always, these are notes almost verbatim from my tasting notebook:

Channing Daughters Winery 2008 Sauvignon ($24): Ripe pear, peach, apple and lemon fruit aromas blend with nutty oak character and subtle herbal quality. Medium-bodied but rich, the palate shows pear and grapefruit with subtle nutty-spicy oak. Finish is long with a peachy note. A bit more acid would really bring this one alive. Rating: 86

Damiani Wine Cellars 2008 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc ($30): Black cherry and dusty blackberry nose with nice sweet herbs, vanilla and disappointingly charcoal-like oak. More black cherry on the palate. The herbal qualities are a bit overwhelmed by oak/charcoal. Medium bodied with a nice fruit core, with lowish tannins and subtle acidity. Too much oak for my tastes. Rating: 82

Keuka Spring Vineyards 2008 Gewurztraminer ($17): Melon and ginger lead the nose with a little lychee and understated floral aromas. Gingery and spicy with more melon-citrus character. Just off-dry with a long finish that delivers watermelon and spice. Good value. Rating: 86

Onabay Vineyards 2007 Great Blue Heron: Plum and sweet red raspberry on the nose with black licorice and  some definite oak that expresses itself as black coffee and well, oak. Medium-bodied with medium-intense tannins, red raspberry and red cherry with more coffee and licorice. A little earthiness emerges on the medium-long finish. Like the acidity. Don't love the heavy dose of oak. Rating: 84

Wagner Vineyards 2008 Dry Riesling ($13): Intensely minerally with river stones on the nose with citrus blossom, green tea and grapefruit-lime aromas. Dry and crisp, fruit flavors of melon, grapefruit and lime bring depth to a truckload of wet rock. Medium-length finish. Great acidity. Great value. Rating: 87

Wagner Vineyards 2008 Select Riesling ($13): Peachy nose with dried apricot and dried fig notes and just a little lemon-lime citrus character. Decidedly off-dry but with good acidity. Surprisingly feather-light palate given the sweetness. Stony edge that cuts through the fruit basket. A little dried fruit again on the end of the medium finish. Rating: 85

Beauty Among the Vineyards

 By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor    
Photo by Morgan Dawson Photography

When's the last time you found yourself in a Finger Lakes vineyard?

My wife and I spent a glorious summer's day searching for potential book cover art, and we moved from lake to lake, spending time in countless vineyards. It was a stirring reminder that the terrain is truly special for winemaking. 

We'll be spending more time on NYCR as harvest approaches focusing on the impact of a wine's place. For now, I will report that the Sawmill Creek vineyard site goes from peaceful at the top section to precarious and steep at the bottom.

Atwater Vineyards boasts some of the most prime parcels we've found. And any vineyard that has a view of the bluff at Keuka Lake is worth visiting.

Of course, there are plenty of mediocre sites. But the very best sites have developed the kind of personality that old world elitists might like to argue only exists in, say, the old world.

A Different Side of the Finger Lakes Wine Festival: The VIP Experience

By Tom Mansell, Science Editor

Photos courtesy of Brian Reider

Last year, I went to my first Finger Lakes Wine Festival with high expectations. It was going to be an opportunity for me to taste wines from Finger Lakes wineries I'd never or rarely visited. I'd also be able to taste wines from Niagara and the Hudson Valley, too.

That Saturday, the festival was a teeming mass of people. Hot, sweaty and cramped under the tents in 90+ degree heat and tasting wines sitting in ice-cold water baths was not at all what I had in mind. 

Sunday was perfectly pleasant, though, with far fewer attendees. The most enjoyable part of the festival however occurred after hours, when winemakers and owners gathered in the "Riesling Room" in an informal setting to taste reserve bottles, swap stories and generally relax after a long, hot day of pouring wines. 

This, I thought, was the wine experience I was looking for: a chance to really taste top wines and talk to winemakers. Into the evening after these tasting sessions, industry folks brainstormed about how to make the festival more inviting for the wine-savvy crowd.

On by blog Ithacork, I summed the 2009 weekend up in three parts. My conclusions and plan for returning in 2010: on Saturday, make an effort to get to seminars and other special events that were being offered and taste down on the front lines on Sunday when it would be less crowded.

This year, I pretty much stuck to my plan, though Saturday was much better than expected: I was privy to the Riedel VIP Experience.

Those who ponied up $175 (or somehow weaseled their way on to the media list...) were offered the following:

• Total access to all Festival events (including the Brewer's garden)
• Access to a 90-minute tasting session with Georg Riedel, featuring Finger Lakes wines in Riedel glassware
• Riedel Vinum XL tasting set (retails for $123 on the Riedel website) 
• Reserve bottle of Finger Lakes wine
• Exclusive “after-hours” access to festival wineries on Saturday
• VIP tasting with 15 participating wineries and the winemakers and vintners on Saturday
• Other goodies like an exclusive wine claim process/redemption, reserved parking, and a ride in the pace car

So from noon until 5 p.m. on Saturday, one could stay in the air-conditioned media center, away from the crowds, and taste special selections of Finger Lakes wines, many of which were poured by winemakers/owners. Bingo.

Riedel Tasting: Spotlight on Finger Lakes Wines

The first element of the VIP experience was a "personal sensory evaluation" with Georg Riedel. I'm not going to mention all of the pseudo-scientific mumbo-jumbo that underpins the claims Riedel makes about how glassware affects wine aroma and taste. That's for another post and possibly another forum altogether. 

Suffice it to say that Riedel holds a tightly-controlled and carefully orchestrated tasting, which involves pouring wines from glass to glass in a choreographed ballet of smelling, tasting, nodding in agreement and gasping in amazement.

My never-ending skepticism aside, there's no denying that Riedel makes world-class glassware and it was great to see Finger Lakes wines filling that glassware. It was also great to see Finger Lakes wines showcased in such a way to a VIP audience, which included international journalists from the prestigious Circle of Wine Writers.

The wines (and the glasses that held them, all from the Riedel Vinum XL line):

• Dr. Konstantin Frank 2008 Dry Riesling (Riesling Grand Cru)
• Atwater Estate 2007 Chardonnay (Montrachet)
• Heart and Hands Wine Company 2007 Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir (Pinot Noir)
• Lakewood Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc (Cabernet Sauvignon)

Interestingly, two of the wineries selected also feature Riedel glassware in their tasting rooms. The wines for this tasting were selected by Jill Day, regional manager for Riedel USA and between 9 and 12 wines were submitted for consideration for each of the four grape varieties.

All the wines showed well in the glassware (as expected). Midway through the tasting, there came effusive praise from Riedel for the Heart and Hands 2007 Barrel Reserve Pinot. When he smelled and tasted it, he was quite obviously temporarily knocked off his game. It was clear that he was truly surprised by the quality of this Finger Lakes pinot as his polished delivery was stopped in its tracks while he complimented winemaker Tom Higgins on a job well done.

VIP Tasting: Great food and great wines in a relaxed atmosphere

After the Riedel tasting and a short breakdown period, the VIP wine tasting began. Leather couches and cocktail tables, light piano jazz and outstanding hors d'oeuvres prepared by local chef Deb Whiting (Red Newt Bistro) set the mood. Fifteen of the top Finger Lakes producers (selected by Finger Lakes Wine Country) were there to pour some nice wines for the VIPs for three hours.

"The winery response was amazing and there was a waiting list in addition to the 15 represented," says Finger Lakes Wine Country president, Morgen McLaughlin. "To have [Hermann J.] Wiemer, Shaw and Lamoreaux Landing pour at the event (when they weren't part of the rest of the Festival) speaks to the support from the wine industry and the top wineries in the region for a VIP Experience." 

If you make a list of who you think are the elite producers in the Finger Lakes, many on that list were in attendance at the VIP tasting. I'll leave a complete list of attendees in the comments section.

Standout wines for me in the VIP tasting (some of which were new releases or very recently bottled):  Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Dry Riesling (fruit leaping out of the glass), Shaw 2009 LiBella Pinot Grigio (bold tropical fruit), Heron Hill 2007 Blaufränkisch (strawberry showing through still generous oak), Red Newt 2007 Viridescens (dark fruit kept in check by firm acid and tannin structure), Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Gewürztraminer (effortlessly balanced fleshy fruit, floral notes, and acidity).

The evolving VIP experience

It was clear that the organizers of the event used consumer and industry feedback to tailor a VIP experience.  Kudos are due to FLWC and Watkins Glen International, the engines of these improvements. Not insignificant in this change is the new president of WGI, Michael Printup. A slick businessman and admitted wine enthusiast, Printup has big ideas for integrating "the Glen" with wine country, including the recent planting of some St. Croix grapevines on the track.

Special events were not limited to those able to drop 175 bucks though. 

Like every year, the NYWGF and the NY Wine & Culinary Center sponsored free seminars on Finger Lakes wines and culinary seminars featuring wine pairings. Down on the track, the "Riesling Room" from 2009, which offered samples of a spectrum of high-quality Rieslings, expanded to become the "Vintner's Room" in 2010, offering 20-minute seminars on different types of wine from winemakers and owners, with special tastings offset from the main tasting tents.

The most disappointing aspect of the VIP tasting was the attendance. While the room was packed for the Riedel tasting, not everybody stayed for what was arguably the real meat of the VIP experience. Even the Vintner's Room, filled to capacity on Saturday, was packing up early on Sunday. 

And speaking of packing up early, almost no wineries stayed open past 5 p.m. for "exclusive after-hours access." Whether this was a miscommunication between security and vendors or an understandable case of "let's get the hell out of here," the Festival was a ghost town at 5:15.

The Festival has (obviously) developed a bad rap among wine cognoscenti over the years. The organizers need to overcome that stigma in order to convince people that a VIP experience is something worth attending.  

Is a huge name like Riedel required to make that happen? $175 is pretty steep, and many wine lovers (if they're anything like me) already have a plethora of wine glasses to begin with. Perhaps a slightly cheaper experience, without the added cost of expensive glassware and airfare for Austrian hucksters, could attract more wine enthusiasts while keeping out the riff-raff.

One thing is clear here, though. The Festival itself is not a static entity that "is what it is" and has no intention of courting wine-savvy consumers and trade folk. This year, the organizers made a valid first attempt at an experience that caters to more discriminating tastes. While it may not have been very well attended, it was a legitimate step in the right direction. Labeling the Festival as nothing but a "drunkfest" is simply no longer valid.

Though truthfully, I did feel a bit bourgeois up there in the media center, far from the madding crowd below.  I guess that's what being a VIP is all about.

(Full disclosure: I attended the VIP experience with media credentials. I did keep the Riedel glassware and I intend to evaluate, experiment and debunk the heck out of it. I did not accept the complimentary "reserve" bottle of Finger Lakes wine.)

Sheldrake Point Vineyard 2008 Gewurztraminer

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

A lot of people, including my wife, don't really care for most gewurztraminer, finding it too floral or perfume-like. I can understand their trepidation -- to a point. Some gewurztraminer does indeed smell and taste like the type of perfume your grandma wears. No one likes those much -- probably not even your grandmother.

But gewurztraminer doesn't have to be like that and there is a lot of great gewurz being made in the Finger Lakes. Right after riesling, it's my favorite grape for the region, delivering exotic spice, tropical-citrus fruit and -- when done well -- great balance.

Sheldrake Point Vineyard 2008 Gewurztraminer ($18) is definitely a wine that delivers balance and doesn't overdo it on the rose petal character.

Candied lemon peel bursts from the glass with floral aromas that aren't at all rose-like or perfumy, classic lychee notes and a little sprinkling of brown spice.

Medium bodied and showing good balance between residual sugar and acidity, this gewurz tastes dry despite sweet lemon-citrus flavors with some ripe peach in the mix. The acidity isn't electric, but helps the wine finish crisply with lingering citrus blossom and Lemon Head candy flavors.

At $15, this is a terrific value for both gewurz lovers and doubters alike.

Producer: Sheldrake Point Vineyard
AVA: Finger Lakes
RS: .5%
TA: 6.3 g/L
pH: 3.53
ABV: 13.6%
Price: $15
Rating: 87

(Ratings Guide)

Hosmer Winery 2008 Dry Riesling

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

The tasting room isn't fancy and sure, I wish more of their wines were closed with natural cork (to see how they cellar) but for my money, Hosmer Winery offers some of the best value vinifera wines in the Finger Lakes. This dry riesling is no exception -- in fact, it's one of the best examples.

Hosmer Winery 2008 Dry Riesling ($12), made with grapes grown in the oldest section of their vineyard, planted almost 30 years ago, is very apple-y on the nose with hints of tropical fruit, fresh herbs and lime.

The palate is fruity and forward, showing more apple and some melon fruit character with a squirt of lime and a sprinkling of lemon zest. It's dry (.7%) with nice balance, but not austere or harsh.

The finish isn't super-long, but for $12 you can do far far worse -- not just in the Finger Lakes, but the world over. The Finger Lakes needs more quality riesling at this price point.

Producer: Hosmer Winery
AVA: Cayuga Lake
Price: $12
ABV: 12.5%
RS: .7%
Rating: 85

(Ratings Guide)

Ravines Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Riesling

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Morten Hallgren, winemaker at Ravines Wine Cellars, makes dry wines and dry riesling... and that's it.

That's unique in a region where just about every winery has at least two rieslings -- "Dry" and "Semi-Dry" -- and often more.

Having a portfolio without at least one sweeter wine -- 1% residual sugar is as high as it gets at Ravines -- is somewhat risky in a region visited by throngs of sweet wine lovers. Most wineries stock at least one or two wines "for the masses" but Morten and his wife Lisa seem to be doing just fine making the wines they believe in.

Top-to-bottom it's one of the best lineups in the Finger Lakes.

Citrusy and floral, the bright nose on Ravines Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Riesling ($17) shows intense lime, citrus blossom and green apple aromas with subtle peach character (that emerges as the wine warms a bit) and a stony vein beneath.

Focused and intricate, the palate is -- of course -- dry (.3% RS) with more lime, Granny Smith apple, floral and slate flavors that are at once delicate and intense. The finish is long an all about the stony slate character with just a little citrus zest.

Producer: Ravines Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.5%
RS: .3%
Case Production: 1,200
Price: $17*
Rating: 90

(*Ratings Guide)

Mystery Solved! Belhurst's Owner Clarifies Recent Experience

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Many of you tried to help me make sense of a recent wine experience - click here to read the post if you missed it. 

Well, wonder no more. The owner and general manager, Kevin Reeder, sent me the following email.

I am sorry for your experience at Stonecutters on Saturday evening.  I have had the opportunity to speak with the young lady that waited on you Saturday evening.  The after 10PM bottle wine "policy" as outlined to you by her does not exist.  The wines from the list are available during all the hours the restaurants (Edgars and Stonecutters) are open.  The bottled wines are locked in two locations, first floor and basement.  Both locations are short distances from Stonecutters.  The retrieval of the bottled wine during later hours, after Edgars, the fine dining restaurant, is closed poses a little logistical challenge but generally is handled seamlessly.  I am embarrassed that this was not the case with your visit.  Unfortunately, for you and I, she made a bad decision on Saturday evening.

Business owners take note: This is how it's done. I applaud Mr. Reeder for addressing the question directly; you'd be amazed how often owners lash out when we point out a potential problem. 

The email is a comfort because we've always had such good experiences at Belhurst. We'll certainly be back. 

New Auxiliary Tasting Room Rises Over the Ashes at Dr. Frank's

 

by Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Top photograph provided by Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars

Fifteen months after an electrical fire destroyed a 2,000-square foot auxiliary tasting room, Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars will host a triumphant re-opening. 

The top photograph, taken this month, shows the new facility, which owner Frederick Frank calls "bigger and even better" than the facility that burned in April of 2009. The bottom photograph shows the immediate aftermath of that fire.

To celebrate, Dr. Frank's will host a public party on Sunday, July 25th from 1pm to 5pm. Single tickets cost $15; couples will pay $25 to attend. 

Visitors will find a building that is larger than the one that burned, with more windows to provide lake views. As before, the new tasting room will be open on busy weekends and for special parties and events.

Early Bud Break, Hot Early Season: Why It Matters

 

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

Photo courtesy of Sheldrake Point Vineyard

If you're a wine lover but not a wine grower, let's start by accepting a few things: You and I don't know what the heck evapotranspiration is. We can't calculate growing-degree days offhand. We can't lecture on the impact of Mount Pinatubo's volatility.

We know this, though: Debt sucks, and having a pile of cash on hand is good. 

And that, essentially, is what separates 2009 in mid-July and 2010 in mid-July.

"Last year we were in debt from the start with regards to ripening," says Morten Hallgren, owner and winemaker at Ravines Wine Cellars. "This year we have all kinds of cash in the bank."

Before we race too far ahead, and before industry folks hammer me as just another delusional writer, let's get this out of the way: September matters more than August, which matters more than July. So much could change and the vintage story is still largely unwritten. 

But that does not mean that the weather we've experienced doesn't matter. Quite the contrary, it has set New York state growers up for a potentially classic year. 

"Oh, it's very encouraging," Hallgren says. "It reassures us that full ripening will happen. That's what I mean when I say we have cash on hand. We're ahead of schedule early on, and if we have to spend some of that cash later in a cooler patch of weather, we can afford to. If we don't have to, then that leaves the best scenario of all: We wouldn't have to wait for the leaves to fall off before we pick. We'll control picking decisions. We can hang grapes late or we can discover full ripeness earlier than normal. That's pretty nice."

It started with bud break, which happened 10-14 days ahead of schedule this spring. That's consistent with just about all local produce, which has been arriving roughly two weeks ahead at your local farmers market. 

The warmer-than-average spring has given way to a burst of early-summer heat. "If this warming trend continues, we should have very ripe reds and possibly earlier harvest of some of the whites," says Dr. Tim Martinson of the Statewide Viticulture Extension Program at Cornell University. Martinson points out that the Finger Lakes almost entirely dodges a May 10th frost that hit other parts of New York state. "The crop looks nice so far."

I couldn't help but wonder if this is the most extreme set of ripening conditions from one July to the next that the Finger Lakes has seen. Dr. Martinson explains that it's among the most extreme, but it doesn't top the list. He pointed to 1991, with an early heat wave and a very early bud break. "Then in 1992, Mount Pinatubo erupted, leading to the second or third-coolest year on record. It was like a whipsaw for the grapevines and had many consequences over the next few years." (Pinatubo is a volcano in the Philippines that killed 800 people and left worldwide consequences after its eruption.)

If it's too early to make assumptions, it's not too early to conclude that this is the perfect example of why New York state features some of the most diverse vintage-to-vintage conditions in the world. And if you doubt that wine ought to taste different year-to-year, just think back over the past half-decade in the Finger Lakes.

2005: Even, balanced ripening
2006: Cooler, with a deluge during harvest
2007: Historically hot and dry
2008: Hot summer, periodic rains brought botrytis, with cooler, even harvest
2009: Cool summer, lagging ripening, warm September brought some relief

If you're a wine geek, it's fascinating stuff. If you're a casual wine drinker, it's valuable to know the differences. 

Long Island is similarly ahead of schedule in 2010. And while so much can change, just go back to April, when growers were dreading an early bud break. Why? Because an early bud break leaves buds vulnerable to frost. But that frost never came, and ripening was off and cruising. 

In other words: It's nice to dream.