New York Cork Report

2010 Harvest Update: Baco Noir at Benmarl Winery

Benmarl Winery in Marlboro makes some of the best baco noir in the state. In fact, it's achieved what could be considered cult status up in the Hudson Valley.

Today, winemaker Matt Spaccarelli (pictured above) and crew picked 4 tons of baco noir today. It came in at 22.5 brix.

This is Matt's first year as the sole winemaker. I look forward to tasting his first vintage without departed winemaker Kristop Brown.

Hudson-Chatham Winery 2009 Empire Reserve White

It was almost a year ago that I wrote about Empire Red, a new wine from Hudson-Chatham Winery that combines the key three red grapes -- baco noir, merlot and cabernet franc -- from each of New York's  largest wine regions, the Hudson Valley, Long Island and Finger Lakes respectively.

Co-owner Carlo DeVito and winemaker Steve Cascles haven't stopped there though, recently releasing Hudson-Chatham Winery 2009 Empire White ($15), the white wine sister to Empire Red.

Made with 33% seyval blanc from the Hudson Valley, 33% riesling from White Spring Winery on Seneca Lake and 33% sauvignon blanc from Long Island, it brings together the signature white varieties of the regions.

Fresh and fruity, the nose shows the full range of citrus -- lemon, lime and grapefruit -- with a little honey, hay and understated herbaceous notes.

Easy drinking and citrusy (again) the palate is dominated by white grapefruit right out of the refrigerator, with faint hints of herbs. As it warms a bit, subtle peach character emerges just a bit. Good-not-great acidity leads into an abrupt finish, where that hay-honey combination peeks through again.

The riesling is a bit buried on the palate -- but I guess you'd expect that with a bold grape like sauvignon blanc in the mix.

Much like the Empire Red, I think the concept of the wine is outstanding but I think with the white, it's difficult to blend riesling without losing much of it's true character. This seems more like a sauvignon-seyval blend in that regard.

Producer: Hudson-Chatham Winery
AVA: New York
Price: $15*
Rating: 83

(*Ratings Guide)

Vineyard Visuals: Fruit Wine Harvest in the Hudson Valley

Black currants being harvested at Good Farm.

Photo courtesty of Carlo DeVito, Hudson-Chatham Winery

It's easy to forget that fruit winemakers don't have the same schedule that grape winemakers do... but Carlo reminds us with this picture and a note saying:

"While many wineries' busy time of year is fall, many fruit winemakers are out already toiling at this time of year. Currant and raspberry season are at their high point. In the Hudson Valley, where cassis is one of the fastest-growing categories, and with good reason, Hudson-Chatham, Tousey, Brookview Station, and Clinton Vineyards are all in the middle of fruit wine production."

Oak Summit Vineyard 2008 Pinot Noir

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

John and Nancy Bruno, owners of Oak Summit Vineyard in the Hudson Valley only do pinot noir. It's the only grape the grow in their 6-acre vineyard. It's the only wine they make. And they are proud of the fact that they only use estate-grown fruit -- not always the case in the Hudson River Region.

Their website states "There are no other grapes allowed in our wine. What you get in the bottle is what you see in the vineyard."

The idea that wine is made in the vineyard has been pushed into the land of cliche by wine marketing and PR folks of course, but that doesn't make it untrue. 

No one thinks of pinot noir when they think of the Hudson Valley, but if this wine is any indication, it can be done -- and done well -- at least on a small scale.

Aromas of fresh red cherries and raspberries are accentuated by those of dried flowers, cocoa powder, warm spice, damp earth and just a little smoke.

The lithe, fresh palate -- though a bit less interesting than the intricate, layered nose -- presents cherry and strawberry fruit backed by spicy oak and chocolate. Acidity brings structure to go with silky, well-incorporated tannins and moderate alcohol.

The finish is medium-short and shows a bit of raw oak, but that barely detracts from the spicy, chocolaty finale.

Producer: Oak Summit Vineyard
AVA: Hudson River Region
ABV: 12%
Price: $30*
Rating: 87

(Ratings Guide)

New York Cork Report Tasting Table: June 18, 2010

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

I promise we'll get back to Tasting Table as a weekly feature here on Fridays, but in the meantime, I'll put them together when I can -- like today. As always these are short notes taken almost directly from my tasting notebook:

Brimstone Hill Vineyard 2008 Vidal Blanc (Hudson River Region | $10): Honey, golden raisin and pool water on the nose. Light apple flavors but also a lot of honey, like Bit o Honey candy. Not overly sweet, but needs acidity. Rating: 77

Croteaux Vineyards 2009 Cuvee Sparkle (North Fork | $24): Grapefruit, strawberries and light peach aromas on a simple, fruity nose. Charmat style.  Bubbles are soft and refreshing. Creamy mid-palate with a certain softness. Fun, fruity. Shortish finish. Rating: 85

Glorie Farm Winery NV Red Monkey (Hudson River Region | $13): Menthol, black pepper, dark berries and American oak on the nose. Medium-bodied palate with low (oak) tannins and red hybrid-acidity. Toasty American oak flavors. Black pepper and dill over black plum and cherry flavor. Medium-short finish. Rating: 79

Lieb Family Cellars 2009 Bridge Lane Rose (North Fork | $15): Faint nose. Watermelon rind and red cherry. Lightly herbal flavors go with watermelon and strawberry fruit flavors, with a little sweet melon and citrus in the mix. Not all that flavorful in the lineup. Medium body, fresh acidity/finish. Rating: 82

Macari Vineyards 2009 Rose (North Fork | $18): Red cherry and watermelon nose. Same on the palate with a little orange/tangerine. Creamy on the mid-palate with good-not-great acidity. Long finish that shows an odd bit of heat given the 13.1% abv at the very end. Rating: 82

Whitecliff Vineyards 2009 Riesling

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Disappointingly few rieslings made in the Hudson Valley from Finger Lakes fruit maintain the true character of the fruit's origin. There are many reasons why this could be, some unavoidable.

Trucking fruit or juice from central New York to the Hudson Valley certainly isn't going to make for a pristine start to the winemaking process. That can't help. Add manipulative or extremely low-tech winemaking techniques (lack of temperature control during fermentation for instance) and it's easy to see why many rieslings made and bottled in the Hudson Valley under the "New York State" AVA can be tasty, but rarely express or are recognizable as being born in the Finger Lakes.

Not so with the Whitecliff Vineyards 2009 Riesling ($15).

Lightly floral aromas lead into those of ripe peach, lime-grapefruit and honey with an underlying fennel note.

Citrus flavors -- grapefruit and lime -- are primary on the palate, which shows good-not-great acidity and a light floral quality as the wine warms a bit.

The residual sugar tastes more sugary than fruity here, even with decent acidity and balance, so it comes off a bit artificial/candied.

The finish is medium-short and doesn't show great focus, but this is an everyman style of riesling and a nice effort.

Producer: Whitecliff Vineyards
ABV: 12%
Price: $15*
Rating: 82

(Ratings Guide)

Brookview Station Winery NV Whistle Stop White

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

I'm excited to publish this review, not because the wine is going to knock your socks off or something I'd rush out to buy again and again, but because it represents a new category of adult beverages being covered here on the NYCR -- fruit wines.

Many people scoff at the category without even exploring the wines within it, but I'm enthusiastic to try and learn about anything, including fruit wines in the Hudson Valley -- and there are a lot being made there.

And you know what, I think this Brookview Station Winery Whistle Stop White ($13) has its place, even if it's not something I'd want to drink every day.

The nose is simple, showing fresh-cut apple and something lightly floral. It brings more of the same to a medium-bodied palate that shows a bit of sugary sweetness at first, but finished almost dry, with a little rustic apple skin bitterness that actually worked quite well.

Some of the other apple/pear wines I tasted next to this one showed a disappointing bit of alcoholic heat on the finish, but this one didn't, making it one of my favorites from the lineup.

On it's own, you can do much better for $13, but with a hunk of crusty bread and some bold cheese, I think it'd be pretty satisfying.

Producer: Brookview Station Winery
ABV: 13%
Price: $13*
Rating:     (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

(*Ratings Guide)

New Bill Threatens to End Direct Wine Shipping: "More and more like a monopoly"

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Congress could soon decide whether consumers can buy wine directly from wineries, and legislation is moving more quickly than many industry observers anticipated.

A bipartisan bill (HR 5034) would give more power and control to states, which would strengthen the current three-tier system of distribution. The bill is championed by the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America (WSWA), but it's opposed vehemently by winery owners across the country -- including some here in New York state.

In a statement released by WSWA, CEO Craig Wolf said, "America's regulated three-tier system is -- hands down -- the best beverage alcohol distribution system in the world."

In response, one New York state wine industry executive who asked not to be identified told me, "This is coming from the head of the most exclusive millionaire's club in America. There are fewer distributors in each state now, and that's not competition. The consumer gets hurt when we lose competition. And what happens when the largest distributors just swallow up the smaller ones? It starts to look more and more like a monopoly."

The New York Cork Report has spoken to numerous industry professionals, but due to the sensitive nature of their relationship with distributors, none wanted to comment on the record. We encourage open discussion in the comments section of this post, as it is a vitally important topic.

Retailers and other professionals are offering swift reactions to the bill. "Congress, backed by the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America are looking to pass laws that will not allow you to purchase wines from retailers outside of your home state," wrote Daniel Posner, owner of Grapes The Wine Company, in an email to his customers (many of whom are outside of the company's New York home). "You do not even realize what is going on in your own backyard, but it is very bad."

For more information, read stories on Wine Business.com and Wine Spectator.

New York Cork Report Tasting Table: April 14, 2010

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Here are some wines that have crossed the NYCR tasting table over the past couple of weeks but won't be reviewed as standalone posts. For this edition, we welcome some fruit (non-grape that is) wines for the first time. There will be more coverage of that category going forward as well.

Brookview Station Winery NV Oh What  Pear!, Hudson River Valley ($16): Light nose of under-ripe pear and pear cider. Medium bodied with a lightly oily texture on the mid-palate, it's a little sugary at first but finishes fairly clean. Subtle pear skin note brings a little complexity. A little hot on the finish at 13% abv. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Brookview Station Winery NV Pomona, Hudson River Valley ($15): Blend of pear and apple. Semi-sweet and tastes more like pear than apple. Simple and understated fruit with a light bitterness that actually brings some interest. A little hot on the finish again. Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average)

Heron Hill Winery 2005 Ingle Vineyards Chardonnay, Finger Lakes ($15): Appley on the nose with subtle vanilla, spice and sweet corn. Medium weight with ripe apple and nice spice -- but a bitter, raw oak note as well. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Fox Run Vineyards 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, Finger Lakes ($13): Lots of toasty oak on the nose with brown spice and apple beneath. Oak is a bit raw, but nice creaminess on the mid-palate. Roasted apple, baking spice and vanilla flavors. Dry, citrusy acid on a short finish. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Frost Cuvee, Finger Lakes ($12): Extremely light, almost-neutral nose with a subtle hint of citrus and gewurz spice/rose. Light on the palate too, with a bit more roundness on the mid-palate. Good acidity frames austere sweet lime and pineapple flavors, with a little of that gewurzt character too. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Johnson Estate 2007 "Feelings Creek" Riesling, New York ($12): Honey, canned peaches and canned corn on the nose with a unique supermarket cheddar note as well. Over-ripe and canned peach fruit flavors layered with honey and canned corn. Just off-dry on the mid-palate, but plenty of acidity. A little grapefruit on a short finish. Rating: (1.5 out of 5 | Not Recommended-to-Average)

Martha Clara Vineyards 2007 Merlot, North Fork of Long Island ($18): Nice aromas of raspberry and plum with subtle earthiness and understated spice and cocoa powder notes. The palate closely matches the nose with red fruit and spice accented by earthy dried leaves and just a little chocolate character. Medium bodied with medium tannins. Nice in the not-very-crowded under-$20 category. Rating: (3 out of 5 | Recommended)  

Martha Clara Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir, North Fork of Long Island ($30): Oak dominates the nose -- vanilla, spice and smoke. Some chocolate-covered-cherries and cranberries beneath. Heavy dose of oak on the palate as well, but a silky mouthfeel bright cherry and cranberry flavors push through the oak. Finish is medium-long. Supple, round tannins. A little woodsy/earthy on the finish. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Martha Clara Vineyards 2007 Syrah, North Fork of Long Island ($23): Black cherry, flowers, caramel and oak on the nose. Much less oaky on the palate. Shows dark fruit, subtle spice and beautiful mouthfeel. Soft to the point of maybe needing a bit more structure. Medium finish.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Sheldrake Point Vineyard 2007 Luckstone Red, Finger Lakes ($12): Red cherry and strawberry jam on the nose. There is some marjoram here too, with hints of vanilla/oak and something faintly metallic too. Medium-light body with juicy, crunchy red fruit flavors with layers of violets and herbs. Not-great balance because of high acid and almost no tannins. Short.  Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average)

Hudson-Chatham Winery 2008 Chelois

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Despite all the naysayers in the media and various wine geek circles, some Hudson River Valley wineries have really embraced hybrids and are making far more serious wines with them.

Hudson-Chatham Winery in Ghent is one such winery. They make a line of vinifera reds, but that fruit comes from Long Island. Their riesling is made with Finger Lakes fruit.

The most interesting wines in the portfolio -- the ones that deserve the most attention -- are hybrids like baco noir and this soon-to-be-released Chelois. Winemaker Steve Casscles has been growing and vinifying hybrids for years and makes some unique, expressive wines from them.

Before trying this wine, I had never tasted Chelois one of over 16,000 hybrids developed by Albert Seibel (1844-1936). Nearly 500 of them went on to be grown commercilaly. 

The heritage of Chelois includes such vinifera as Alicante Bouschet and Grenache among others. For many years it was grown in Burgundy.

This Hudson-Chatham Winery 2008 Chelois ($22) is made entirely from fruit grown in Casscles own vineyard -- a 15 year-old block located on the rocky hills adjacent to the Hudson River.

Hand picked, the fruit was manually pressed and aged in French oak for nine months, the wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered. 

It's interesting that the Chelois grape was once grown in Burgundy as there is something distantly Burgundian about it. The nose shows a lot of sweet vanilla and oak at first, but also red cherry, dried cranberry and a distant black pepper-crusted grilled mushroom note way in the back.

Soft and light bodied, the palate shows more of a vanilla oak than a toasty oak, with more dried cranberry and cherry flavor. The acidity is subtle but makes the medium-short finish fresh, dry and clean.

Without any tasting history with this grape, I won't delve into the potentially hyperbolic, but there certainly seems to be potential here. This is a good start.

Producer: Hudson-Chatham Winery
AVA: Hudson River Region
Grapes: 100% Chelois
Production: 50 cases
Price: $22*
Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

(*Ratings Guide)

El Paso Winery NV "Just Plain White"

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief
Photo courtesy of East Coast Wineries

A friend of mine in the Hudson Valley gave me this bottle of El Paso Winery NV "Just Plain White" ($10) and I knew next to nothing about it when I tasted it. And, after visiting the winery's website I don't know much either, other than that it's a "medium to semi-dry Chenin Blanc blend" even though the label says "Dry Table Wine."

I tasted it before visiting the website however, and I wouldn't have guessed chenin blanc at all.

The nose is very seyval blanc-like to me with apple and that dusty earthiness that turns me off about the grape. There's some sweet fruit there and a bit of the foxy aroma often associated with hybrids and natives. I scribbled "Seyval and Cayuga?" in my notebook. Hopefully I can find out what was blended into the chenin for this (and also where that chenin came from).

A bit fruitier and foxier on the palate, the residual sugar brings nice mouth-filling roundness to the wine and there is nice acid on the finish to keep it from being too sweet, but it falls a bit flat in the mid-palate where it's a little watery after a apple-y start.

Producer: El Paso Winery
AVA: New York
ABV: 12%
Price: $10
Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average)

(*Ratings Guide)

New York Cork Report Tasting Table: March 12, 2010

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Here are some wines that have graced the NYCR tasting table over the past week but won't be reviewed as standalone posts.

Alison Wines 2005 Reserve Merlot ($16): Minty, mouthwash-like nose with a little cherry and not much else. Short, low tannins with just a little acidity. Mint, mint, mint and a little cherry. Rating: (1 out of 5 | Not Recommended)

Fox Run Vineyards 2008 Riesling ($14*): Super-ripe peach/apricot nose with a little dried pineapple. Big fruitiness on the palate with okay-not-great balance and hints of honey. Not precise, but a nice zesty finish helps. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Hunt Country Vineyards NV Classic Red ($9*): Blend of DeChaunac, merlot, Noiret and Rougeon. Nose is all cherry Ludens/candy at first with raisins and a little black pepper. Simple and short, but pleasant. Raisin, plum a a little spicy oak. Decent acid. RS comes through on the finish. Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average)

Hunt Country Vineyards 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling ($14*): Tight nose with light golden delicious apple and golden raisin aromas. Similar flavors with a little honey added. Nice fruitiness but needs acidity to balance 2+% RS. Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average)

Palaia Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Franc ($22*): Surprisingly light color. Lots of oak on the nose -- raw, vanila and caramel. A little cherry in the back but not much. Raw, bitter oak on the palate with smoky vanill. Fruit hard to find on the palate. Good acidity to go with lower tannins. Long finish of vanilla and campfire. Rating: (1 out of 5 | Not Recommended)

Palaia Vineyards 2006 Merlot ($21*): Red cherry and plum accented by smoky American oak and a little chocolate on the nose. Medium body with simple flavors that match the aromas. Soft mid-palate. Just enough structure and a nice, medium-length finish. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Peconic Bay Winery 2008 Riesling ($22*): Extremely pale yellow-green. Lemony citrus nose with white flowers, a hint of anise and peach. Tangy and citrusy on the palate as well. Good balance between acidity and residual sugar. Medium finish with lemon and lime zest. Simple, but refreshing. Not a great value though. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Roanoke Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40): Black cherry and blueberry nose with coffee, licorice and a meaty/black olive note with a little spice. Medium-body with surprising intensity for the vintage. Dark fruit with grippy, dry tannins. More coffee and black olive with a long, earthy-spice finish. Rating: (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

Sheldrake Point Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir ($18*): Smoky nose with strawberry, red cherry and a little grilled mushroom. Softy cherry and vanilla on the palate with subtle earthiness. Much less overt smokiness. Nice acid on the finish. Solid for the money. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Warwick Valley 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon ($16): 25% cab franc. Nice, classic cassis and black cherry fruit on the nose with a little oak and vanilla. A bit more oak shows on the palate, where cassis and cherry carries through. A little earthy with a little herbal edge. Solid structure and nice grip. Finish is a short and a bit too oaky. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

(* Ratings Guide)

Pinot Noir in New York: It Takes Location, Expression and Passion

3 Pinot Noirs and 1 Merlot: The New York Cork Report 2009 Red Wines of the Year

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief
Photos by Morgan Dawson Photography

Is pinot noir the next great red for upstate New York?

Given how difficult pinot noir is to work with in the vineyard -- especially in cool-climate regions like New York -- as well as in the cellar, it may seem a silly, easy-to-answer question. But the New York Cork Report Wines of the Year tasting back in January resulted in pinot noir winning three out of four regional flights.

Merlot taking the Long Island flight wasn't a surprise, but I think we were all surprised that pinot noir won the other three. Where was cabernet franc, a grape that shows well consistently across all regions?

The fact that these pinot noirs won in head-to-head flights against grapes like cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and red blends speaks even more highly to their quality. These heavier "bigger" wines tend to stand out in tastings such as these.

That didn't and doesn't matter though. Pinot noir won the day. Not only can pinot noir be done in New York state, it can be done very very well. But it's not easy.

But just what does it take to make top-flight pinot in New York? As I spoke and emailed with winemakers and winery owners, three key themes themes emerged.

Location Leads

Almost every person I spoke to highlighted vineyard location as one of the most important factors in pinot success. You can't just plant pinot anywhere and expect great things. It's too tender and too fickle.

But, it's not just about location. What you do in the best locations matters just as much.

Morten Hallgren, winemaker and co-owner of Ravines Wine Cellars puts it this way "The challenges with pinot noir in the Finger Lakes or elsewhere can be found almost entirely in the vineyard. (You need) suitable, well-drained sites, good clones and rootstock, severe pruning — closer to one cluster per shoot than two — an impeccable spray program to get sufficient hang time and to bring in pinot noir free of Botrytis, hand picking only, careful fruit handling — no crushing or must pumps — extract early but don't over-extract, separate seeds from skins at press time, and restrained use of good French oak."

He makes it sound easy, doesn't he? Okay, maybe not. But we already knew that going in.

On Long Island, veteran winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich of Raphael thinks that Long Island's late summer and early fall temperatures might be too warm for pinot noir, which does better when it ripens very slowly, a sentiment echoed by Hallgren, "It really does not handle heat and drought stress very well. "

Olsen-Harbich adds however, "That being said, I do believe that there are good sites on Long Island for pinot noir. I think the potential is huge but it needs to be planted on the absolute best sites."

And much like Hallgren, Olsen-Harbich is quick to point out that success with the grape takes more than just a good site. "It takes a tremendous amount of dedication to the variety and its needs. If you want it to perform like other varieties you'll be disappointed. I'm not going to say you need high-density plantings as I'm not convinced that this is as important a factor as many people make it out to be. What is important is that the proper trellising system be designed for the specific area the vines are growing in. That will take time to figure out. But extreme crop control, good exposure and vine balance, intense selection at harvest and careful cellar handling are very important in my view."

Long Island winemakers are still trying to figure out exactly how to succeed with pinot. Osprey's Dominion Vineyards' winemaker Adam Suprenant — who makes one of my favorite local pinots, by the way — says that "Pinot noir is the holy grail of Long Island red winemaking. So many, including myself, over the past dozen years, have gone on the quest but have ended up failing to make decent red wine out of pinot noir." He also points to reduced crop loads, noting "1.5 - 1.75 tons per acre" as the sweet spot.

Jamesport Vineyards planted its pinot noir vineyard on the North Fork in 1984, so it has some of the most mature pinot noir vines in the state. But owner Ron Goerler doesn't focus on tonnage as much as some others I spoke with, instead pointing to shoot positioning, the timing of leaf removal "and having people in the winery who want to make really good pinot noir." With regard to tonnage, he told me "We believe that it takes the same amount of energy for one ton as it does for three tons."

Let the Grapes Express Themselves

Most any emerging wine region — New York and its sub-regions included — struggles at some point to make its own wines rather than ones that are "like" another region's. On Long Island, you used to hear marketers scream "We're like Bordeaux" even though it was never true and never will be. Similarly, some Finger Lakes producers compare their Rieslings to the Mosel or Alsace — classic Riesling regions to be sure, but nothing like the wines from along the lakes.

The most successful New York pinot doesn’t try to be carbon copies of the world's two dominant pinot styles: Burgundy and California.

Hallgren doesn't try to emulate either, though he thinks the best Finger Lakes pinots share characteristics with Burgundy. He approaches his wines "With a respect of the (variety's) character. This means not being obsessed with color, alcohol level or blindly imitating styles or practices found in very different regions."

But what happens when people come into the Ravines tasting room expecting plush, California-style pinot?

"When I hear the question 'Should you really grow pinot noir in the Finger Lakes?' my answer is 'Should you really grow it anywhere else in North America?' As long as classic Burgundy pinot noir remains the reference wine, there is absolutely no doubt that the Finger Lakes is the best home for pinot noir. If you want to produce alcoholic, jammy wine that resembles syrah or cabernet, then the answer would be different."

A regional style — on the New York state or AVA level — has yet to emerge. And, in the Finger Lakes at least, the pinot noir clones planted are partly to blame for inconsistent quality and they lack of a signature style.

"The difference in clonal selection is probably one of the more dramatic differences on color and density (amongst Finger Lakes pinot)," according to Tom Higgins, co-owner and winemaker at Heart & Hands Wine Company, a pinot-focused winery on Cayuga Lake. "Back in the 1980s and early 1990s growers in the Finger Lakes really didn’t care much about the clones — they just wanted to make pinot noir as part of their winery portfolio. Fortunately, in the late 1990s and into the new decade, Finger Lakes growers began planting/re-planting some of their Pinot blocks with the Dijon clones for that desired weight in the glass."

Pinot Takes Passion

Most of the pinot lovers I know are absolutely fanatical about it, but Higgins thinks that for many, it goes well beyond that. "To pursue pinot, you have to be nuts."

I'd of course hesitate to call Higgins or anyone else making pinot nuts, but in a region famous for its aromatic whites, Heart & Hands is clearly clearing its own path, or as Higgins himself puts it "I don't think anyone else has stuck themselves out so much in this way in the Finger Lakes, going against the wine-for-all model."

Clearly, Higgins is just the type of person who should be making pinot noir in the Finger Lakes. I think Hallgren would agree. He told me that "Wineries in the Finger Lakes should not consider making pinot noir unless they are willing to show a full commitment from vineyard to the winemaking to even selling it as a cool-climate style of red wine, which is not so easy these days."

Location. Expression. Passion. Those are the three keys to making good — or even great — pinot noir in New York State. And while what each means may vary from person to person, there's no arguing that New York wineries are making increasingly good pinot noir as they identify the best sites and fine tune practices both in the vineyard and in the winery.

It's a good time to be a pinot noir lover in New York.

Three Sisters Project Prepares for April Launch

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Full disclosure: Lenn and I were approached in the planning stages about how this project might work.We offered some basic feedback but removed ourselves from the process. 

An ambitious new collaboration will launch in April, and it unites New York State's three largest wine producing regions. The Three Sisters Project will link "sister wineries" from Long Island, the Hudson Valley, and the Finger Lakes.

Each sister winery will sell one another's wine in the tasting room and will seek to educate customers about the unique qualities of the individual regions.

“Interest in local foods and wine have never been hotter. We think this is a great opportunity," said Carlo DeVito, co-owner of Hudson-Chatham Winery in the Hudson Valley. "This has been a great way to work with our sister wineries, share information, try new styles, introduce new wines into our tasting rooms, and get the word out on New York state wine.” 

For the inaugural Three Sisters Project, there are two separate sets of sister wineries. Participating wineries include:

• Lieb Family Cellars and Macari Vineyards from Long Island
• Benmarl Winery and Hudson-Chatham Winery from the Hudson Valley
• Fox Run Vineyards and Anthony Road Wine Company from the Finger Lakes

The participating wineries are still finalizing the list of wines to be poured at each location. 

“The major thing with New York wines is building awareness,” said Matthew Spaccarelli, owner of Benmarl Winery. “The quality and consistency is already in place. This program is a great way to showcase what the wineries throughout New York are producing.” 

DeVito has said that if the project is successful, it's possible it will be repeated in the fall and in future years.

But what will it mean to be "successful"? If participating wineries can sell one another's wines with regularity while providing new information for consumers about other New York regions, that will qualify. 

The theme fits the larger ethos that has become so pervasive in New York winemaking, which is the value of collaboration. In April we'll find out what kind of impact it can have on consumers.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #66 and Sugar High Fridays #62: Your Tenderest Twosome

The contenders

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

This month's edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday is actually the first dual event between WBW and Sugar High Friday, a similar event centered on desserts and sweets founded by this month's WBW host, Jennifer Hamilton of The Domestic Goddess.

This will mark SHF #62, so it's been around for a while and this dual event is long overdue.

Her theme, Your Tenderest Twosome is a no-brainer for this first dual event:

"Most meals end with dessert and coffee or a glass of liqueur. The focus on the meal is long since gone, as is the wine. Guests are getting sleepy, hosts are getting antsy about the clean-up ahead of them and no one is paying attention to what they're eating or drinking anymore. I think this is shameful. Every once in a while, dessert deserves the attention given to a main course...

The proper pairing of a sugary confection with a good wine is a difficult thing to maneuver. I have seen it done a few times in restaurants, once or twice at dinner parties and maybe done it once myself - and I almost certainly managed it by accident. Do you go sweeter with the wine than the dessert or match it? Do you go red or white or ice? Do you try to harmonize regions or go completely off the map (so to speak) with your choice...?

 You have the chance to decide all this and more for yourself this month with the first ever joint SHF-WBW Dessert-Wine Pairing Event! All bloggers (food, wine or otherwise) are welcome to participate. Post your entry on Wednesday, February 24"

I wasn't alone in this pairing challenge -- not by a long shot. This year, we celebrated Valentine's Day at our house with our friends Christine and Aaron (who just launched a cheese-themed blog Cave-Aged recently). We are a food-obsessed foursome and we each cooked a course for our V-day dinner.

Christine and Nena are both great bakers, but Christine drew the dessert course and unleashed a delicious chocolate-hazelnut cake with homemade vanilla bean gelato.

Wine with chocolate is something that wine writers and 'experts' like to talk about a lot, but I'm firmly in the I'd-rather-drink-milk camp when it comes to chocolate. I said so out on Twitter leading up to Valentine's Day and quite a discussion ensued, with Paul Grieco of Hearth and Terroir telling me, more or less, that I'm wrong and that I should try some Pedro Ximenez with chocolate this year.

I'm always willing to be proven wrong, so (as you can see in the picture above) I pulled out a couple bottles of PX to try with Christine's cake. I also grabbed a bottle of Bual because someone else mentioned that as a pairing, and thought it'd be fun to try one local wine -- Paperbirch Raspberry Fine Ruby, made by Hudson-Chatham Winery up in the northern Hudson Valley.

On their own, the PX sherries were my favorites, but I thought that they took away from the chocolate cakes and vice versa. This has always been my issue when trying to pair wine with chocolate -- it can 'work' but typically neither is enhanced. The Bual, for me anyway, was a mess with the cakes, by far the worst of the four.

Then we got to the raspberry port-style dessert wine, which is made with HudsonValley-grown hybrids and, of course, raspberries.

On it's own, it's a bit too sweet for me and fairly one-dimensional -- almost entirely pure raspberry in flavor. But with the cake, the sweetness wasn't as overpowering and the fruitiness worked well. I still preferred the cake on its own, but the cake did improve the wine. One out of two ain't bad, right?

Thanks to Jennifer for the great theme idea -- and to Paul for challenging my chocolate-wine pairing beliefs, even if they didn't change.

New York Wine News & Notes (February 16, 2010)

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief and Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

This week we have three news items of note -- one from each of the three main wine regions in the state. Of course, the Long Island item is about beer, not wine.

Finger Lakes

A Party to Celebrate Finger Lakes Sparklers
Finger Lakes producers continue to spotlight their sparkling wine in a new event at the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel. Sixteen wineries and one distillery will pour three dozen sparkling wines and sparkling beverages at Bubbly! The Finger Lakes Sparkling Wine Party.

The event runs this Saturday night from 6-9 p.m. and according to Finger Lakes Wine Country, this is the largest group of local sparkling wine producers ever assembled. Tickets are $40 per person and $75 per couple.

Hudson Valley

Winemaker Brown Leaving Benmarl Winery
Benmarl Winery winemaker Kristop Brown has announced his intention to leave the Hudson Valley to pursue winemaking opportunities in Washington state. Though he doesn't have a job lined up, Kristop told me in an email this morning that he has several interviews lined up this week and that he plans to finish his enology degree at Washington State University. "The head of the department is Thomas Henick-Kling, formerly of Cornell and he has convinced me of the quality of the program there," he said.

Kristop said that he'll "miss the artistic freedom I was afforded at Benmarl and the opportunity to tend to vines and make wine" because he knows that he probably won't have that at a larger winery out in Washington. But, he also thinks that "Washington does have more opportunity than the Hudson Valley for a winemaker at this point in time. I feel like it's the frontier of winemaking and viticulture in the United States right now and I want to be a part of it."

Something tells me that the Hudson Valley hasn't seen the last of Kristop though. He added that "The experience of having worked in more than one wine region will be beneficial even if one day I decide to return to New York."

Long Island

Southampton Bier de Mars to be Released in Manhattan
On March 2, Southampton Publick House will release its new Bier de Mars at an invite-only event at Manhattan's The Pony Bar from 6 - 8 p.m., followed by a public launch from 8-10 French for “March Beer,” is a little-known specialty beer that originated in northern France. It was traditionally brewed in late winter when the fermentation cellars were at their coolest, resulting in a crisper, cleaner taste.

Southampton Biere de Mars is brewmaster Phil Markowski’s classic interpretation of an authentic French farmhouse-style Biere de Mars. “Our version is brewed with a blend of wheat and barley malts and a generous amount of continental hops. It is cool fermented and aged to give it a clean, smooth, lager-like character,” says Markowski.

Previously only bottled in 750 ml bottles, this year's edition will only be bottled in standard 12-ounce bottles.

Hudson-Chatham 2008 Reserve Baco Noir

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Of the red wine hybrids, baco noir is among my favorites. And, based on the few examples that I've had from the Hudson River Region, it seems like a variety with a real future there, especially if more wineries plant it and really focus on it. The region needs a signature red variety and it doesn't seem as though any vinifera is ready to step up.

Hudson-Chatham Winery is a relatively new winery but its already established itself as one of the more quality-focused producers, one that is embracing what the region can do best rather than apologizing for it.

In that vein, not only are they making baco noir, they have already positioned it as one of their flagship wines.

Hudson-Chatham 2008 Baco Noir Reserve ($21) shows ripe black cherry and plum aromas on the nose with a little cranberry and a healthy dose of vanilla and oak.

Rich and fuller bodied, there is an intensity to the black cherry flavors here with vanilla to round it out. Layers of chocolate and oak bring a little complexity before a sour cherry/cranberry note emerges on the medium-length finish.

Fresh, but balanced, acidity provides most of the structure here, keeping it from being too soft or flabby. Acidity isn't uncommon in red hybrids, but it's not excessively high here like it can be.

It's fruity, but not as simple as some baco noirs I've had. The oak is perhaps a bit obvious right now, but I'm curious to see how this one ages in bottle.

Producer: Hudson-Chatham Winery
AVA: New York
ABV: 11.5%
Price: $21*
Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)
(Ratings Guide)

Benmarl Winery 2008 Baco Noir

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

The Hudson River Region has a clear-cut signature white grape variety -- Seyval Blanc.

On the red side of things, the most planted grape seems to be De Chaunac, but I don't know any winemakers who are excited about it. It's so widely planted because it's easy to grow. Period.

Baco noir is only being bottled varietally by a handful of wineries in the region, but it seems to show the most potential among the hybrids that thrive along the Hudson River, and Benmarl Winery in Marlboro, NY has been growing it and making wine from it for decades. In fact, it's a bit of a cult wine among its fans.

The Benmarl Winery 2008 Baco Noir ($28) shows classic baco cherry character with a little dried fruit/raisin and some spice.

Simple on the palate with sour cherry and plum fruit with subtle raisin and sassafras notes. Juicy up front, the low tannins are supple on the mid-palate before the acidity firms on the finish -- to the point of being a bit harsh.

Producer: Benmarl Winery
AVA: Hudson River Region
Brix at harvest: 20.5
pH: 3.51
TA: 8.4 g/l
Oak Program: 13 months in 2-4 year old French oak
ABV: 12.3%
Price: $27*
Cases Produced: 151 cases
Rating:   (2 out of 5 | Average)

(Ratings Guide)

Finding (and Choosing) the Hudson River Region's Wines of the Year Finalists

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

On Saturday, I spent the day visiting four of the Hudson River Region AVA's best wineries. My goal? To pair that tasting trip with my experience judging the Hudson Valley Wine Competition last spring to identify finalists for the New York Cork Report 2009 Wines of the Year tasting, which takes place this coming Saturday.

In addition to the 4 winery visits, several other wineries were represented as we opened wines during dinner.

Expect several posts in coming weeks about my time in the Hudson Valley, but for now, I'm happy to announce the finalists -- 3 reds, 3 whites and 2 sparklers. I hadn't planned to include the sparkling wines, but they deserve the recognition as well.

White Wines

Whitecliff Vineyard and Winery 2008 Awosting White
A blend of the region's signature white variety, seyval blanc, and one of my favorite hybrids, vignoles. It won gold at the Hudson Valley Wine Competition and when I tasted it again at Uncork New York in December, I thought it showed nice balance and fresh peach flavors with a little residual sweetness.

Benmarl 2008 Slate Hill White
This is another blend that includes chardonnay, riesling and traminette. Fruity up front, there is nice, citrusy acidity and just a subtle floral note from the traminette. It finishes dry and clean.

Millbrook Vineyards 2008 Tocai Friulano
One of only a handful of Friulanos grown and made in New York, this wine is melony and grapefruity with nice balance and a longer-than-expected finish. This is a perennial favorite from the region and a wine that several readers have pointed out to me as a great wine from the Hudson Valley.

Reds

Hudson-Chatham Winery 2007 Empire
Made with grapes from three vineyards in New York's three biggest wine regions blended in equal proportions — Long Island merlot, Finger Lakes cabernet franc and Hudson Valley Baco Noir. A great concept for a wine and each component contributes to the wines character. 

Hudson-Chatham Winery 2008 Baco Noir
Black and sour cherry lead the way with hints of vanilla, cranberry and spice beneath. It's fruity, like you'd expect, but there is a depth and a richness here that made it stand out. The finish is longer than with many bacos as well.

Millbrook Vineyards 2007 Block Five East Pinot Noir
Yes, we all know that pinot is difficult to grow and it's probably even more so in the Hudson Valley, but Millbrook usually pulls it off and this wine is a fine exampe of that. The winner of best red at the Hudson Valley Wine Competition surprised the judges (including me) and may surprise on Saturday as well.

Sparkling

Clinton Vineyards NV Jubilee
The last of four traditionally made sparkling wines (all based on seyval blanc) we tasted on Saturday, it left quite an impression. Made without dosage, it's bright, crisp and finishes dry. Really classy and elegant. And I'm no fan of seyval.

Brotherhood Winery NV Blanc de Blancs
Made with 100% Hudson Valley-grown chardonnay, it's a little less dry (1% RS) but for $11, I don't think you can find a better BdB in New York.

New York Cork Report Tasting Table: January 8, 2010

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

This week, we have a bunch of mini-reviews that, as always, come directly from my tasting notebook with minimal editing.

Bedell Cellars 2007 Taste Red ($35): Nose of sweet cherry, vanilla, brown spice, black pepper and subtle violet note. Core of sweet cherry and plum on a medium-full palate. Tannins are a bit astringent at this stage, but nice spice, vanilla with dusty chocolate, menthol/pine and a slightly earthy edge.  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

Bouke 2008 Bouquet Dessert Wine ($36): Chardonnay and gewurztraminer. Floral nose with intense ginger aromas with fresh apple. Sweet, but delicate on the palate with ginger spice leading the way for candied orange peel and honey. Feather light. Finishes dry and clean.  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

Fulkerson Winery NV Burntray ($12): Made with cab sauv and Noiret. Big black pepper aromas with lightly floral notes, vanilla and dark fruit. Tastes almost like a black pepper-coated cherry. A little thin on the palate and the oak and acid are a little out of balance. Pepper is interesting at first, but there's not much else here. (2 out of 5 | Average)

Fulkerson Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc ($14): Dusty on the nose with plum, vanilla, subtle spice and light green edge. Nice plummy core with spice. Juicy with a lot of vanilla that pushes the green flavors back a bit.  A little astringent.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Lenz Winery 2006 White Label Chardonnay ($12): Pineapple, apple and lemon zest on the nose with subtle sweet corn and spice. Sweet core of tree and tropical fruit, with light spice and lees character and vanilla. Great balance. Acid is fresh, but well integrated because of bottle age. Medium-long finish with a gentle herbal note.  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

Lenz Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon ($15): Pure, high-toned cherry aromas with tobacco leafe, cedar and a light leathery edge. Medium body, bright cherry flavors with leather and more cedar. Good acidity. Light tannins. Solid value for everyday red. Drink soon.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Lucas Vineyards 2008 Cayuga White ($9): Pear nose with a little bit of herbal-grass. Maybe the most subtle foxy note, but it adds complexity, rather than distract. Juicy pear and apple on the palate with green apple acidity. 2.75% RS brings roundness and sweetness, but balance is good. Simple. Fruity but not foxy.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Paperbirch 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Fine Ruby: Prune, vanilla, black licorice and roasted nuts on the nose. Fruity on the palate, with dried plum and cherry with licorice and vanilla. Sweet, but far from cloying. Good balance.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Keuka Village White ($12): Clean, fresh apple and citrus nose. Light body with fresh apple/pear tree fruit and light citrus zest flavors. Great, citrusy acid that balances 1% RS very well. Short on the finish, but refreshing. Good value.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Benmarl Winery 2008 Cabernet Franc

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

This Benmarl Winery 2008 Cabernet Franc ($20) is yet another bit of ammo in the argument for cabernet franc as New York State's most consistently, and widely, successful red variety.

I've tasted several good (or even very good) cabernet franc-based wines from Hudson Valley wineries, but more often than not, they are made using fruit grown either on Long Island or in the Finger Lakes.

That's not the case with this wine, which is made 100% with estate-grown fruit.

The nose opens with earthy dried leaves and dried spices, with a light spice component and understated black cherry aromas.

The fruit is understated on the medium-light bodied palate too, with earthy-herbal flavors up front along with a subtle-spice component and cherry taking a step back.

The tannins are light and a little dusty on the mouthfeel, and the acid is nicely balanced. There is a cured meat note on the finish that I found interesting as well.

A bit more fruit would elevate this wine, but it's a cab franc lover's kind of wine. It's possible that those flavors will develop and open up with more time in bottle. This is a 2008 after all. The first bottled 2008 I've tasted in fact.

Producer: Benmarl Winery
AVA: Hudson River Region
Brix at harvest: 21.2
pH: 3.76
TA: 6.1 g/l
Oak Program: 11 months in 2-4 year old French and American Oak
ABV: 12.9%
Price: $20*
Cases Produced: 115 cases
Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

(Ratings Guide)

New York Cork Report Tasting Table December 11, 2009

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

A handful of wines from the NYCR Tasting Table. As always, these mini-reviews are more or less typed directly from my tasting notebook.

Macari Vineyards 2007 Block E Cabernet Franc ($40): Made with commercially frozen cab franc. Strawberry preserves dominate the nose, with subtle spice and sweet herbs beneath. Sweet up front, but dry on the finish, with good acidity for balance. Straightforward strawberry flavors. Simple but balanced and tasty.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Paperbirch Highlands Fine Ruby Dessert Wine ($18): Blackberry and boysenberry jam on the nose. Simple, fruity. Decent balance of flavor, sugar an alcohol. Simpe jammy black fruit. Short finish. A little hollow on the palate.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Pumphouse Wines 2008 White ($12): House label of Premium Wine Group. Light nose of pears, flowers and lemon-citrus. Palate is a little watery with light pear and citrus flavors. Good, fresh acidity. Very simple. A summer gulper.  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

Pumphouse Wines 2007 Red ($12): Plum and smoke on the nose with a little earthy tobacco edge. Medium body with dark fruit but a little bitter on the mid-palate and the finish. Tannins are medium-intensity but bitter as well. Hard press fractions? (2 out of 5 | Average)

Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2006 "Perle" Chardonnay ($29): Green tea, pear, peach and orange blossom on the nose with vanilla, oak, and hints of pine resin. Full bodied and creamy, yet lively on the palate with great acidity and length. Peach, roasted pear and faint guava on the palate with caramelized sugar, vanilla and spicy lees character. Toasty but not overwhelming.  (3 out of 5 | Recommended) 

Q&A: Matt Spaccarelli, GM and Co-Winemaker, Benmarl Winery

Matt Spaccarelli in the cellar at Benmarl Winery in Marlboro, NY

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief
Photo courtesy of Benmarl Winery

Matt Spaccarelli is new to the wine business, but has immersed himself in every aspect of Benmarl Winery's operations, now serving as the general manager and co-winemaker with Kristop Brown. Born just across the river in Hopewell Junction, Matt attended Fordham University where he was "completely convinced that track & field was my true major." He still holds the school record in the decathlon.

He was still at Fordham when his parents bought Benmarl in 2006, but he worked there part time until he graduated in 2007 with a BA in political science with a concentration in public policy. Upon graduation, he joined the new family business full time as general manager and assistant winemaker. Since then he's moved up to co-winemaker with Kristop.

This year he added president of the Shawangunk Wine Trail to his resume. All by the age of 26.

And now, onto our standard questions:

What (and where) was the first wine you remember drinking? Growing up I remember sipping wine out of my grandpa’s glass. He would always have a jug of something red under the table and I would sit on his knee as he smoked his filterless Lucky Strikes. As for the first wine that I remember having a glass (more like a paper cup) of was a Portuguese red called Borba. Again, it was with my grandfather.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
Besides my family becoming involved with Benmarl, I don’t think that there was a single event or bottle that made me fall in love with the wine industry. I think it was more of a series of events starting with my upbringing, making wine in the garage.

After that, it was my introduction to agriculture (especially local agriculture) by my brother Stephen, followed by my study of public policy at Fordham University. It is a combination of these and many other events (and wonderful bottles of wine) that have pushed and pulled me into not only winemaking, but the culture, politics and lifestyle that surround it.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
We just bottled our 2008 Hudson River Region Cabernet Franc and it seems to be very promising. We decided to bottle this wine unfined and unfiltered and it has pushed it into a direction that I would like to see all of our wines go, more terroir driven. As our vineyards mature and as we get more vines in the ground, I hope to grow more wines that reflect not only who we are, but where we are from as well.

I think that this wine is our first step in that direction.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Hudson Valley wine community?
I would have to say that it is the “community” of the Hudson Valley Wine Industry that has surprised me the most. We are realizing more and more that without regional attention we have little opportunity to gain recognition for the quality wines that are being made here. Because of that, we work together in grass roots efforts to push each other forward. It’s less of a competition then it is a group effort. It is everyone’s awareness of our potential and willingness to cooperate that has been most surprising.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
I would say that it is a 50/50 split between wine and beer, with an occasional gin and tonic on a hot day or rye whiskey when its cold out. There is not a style of wine or beer that I truly dislike. Perhaps it’s the winemaker in me that finds something interesting about them all. However, I do tire quickly of “fruit bomb” and high alcohol new world wines, hopped up IPA’s or Russian Imperial Stouts. Don’t get me wrong, I really enjoy them from time to time, but I guess it’s a balanced beverage that most often fills my glass.

Is there a 'classic' wine style or beer and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
Foie gras. The flavor is just not that interesting to me. Combine that with the practice of farming foie gras and it is not enjoyable. I am by all means an omnivore. I consume farm-raised meat as well as self-harvested wild game, but for me foie gras crosses the line of excessive.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
No matter how good the food, how fine the wine, or how beautiful the setting is, the company you keep is paramount. Without good company it is difficult to enjoy anything.

Secondly, it is the process that can also make the wine drinking experience enjoyable. A fine meal and wine paring at a restaurant is wonderful, however I prefer cooking at home using ingredients from the garden and meat harvested on the estate. The more you are invested into the experience, whether it be harvesting the food your self or know the farmer that raised it for you, crafting the wine in your own cellar or understanding the philosophy behind the wine you choose to drink, the greater the enjoyment.

Applewood Winery Video: Pressing DeChaunac

Hudson Valley Wine Video: 2009 Hudson Valley Wine Competition Winners Dinner